[TR] Mt. Rainier National Park - Liberty Ridge 7/29/1990

[jca]

Trip: Mt. Rainier National Park - Liberty Ridge

 

Date: 7/29/1990

 

Trip Report:

I left from Bellingham, Washington on Friday, July 27, 1990 for a climb of Mt. Rainier’s classic northern route, Liberty Ridge. The route was among the first of the steep northerly ridges and faces of the glacier-clad giant to be climbed (1935) and has become a magnet for climbers in recent years following the publication of a book about so-called “classic climbs”. Although the ridge was considered an extremely difficult climb when it was first scaled, climbing standards, equipment and attitudes have scaled the climb down to a serious but not highly technical category. During the months of May and June in many years, good weather and a stable snow pack make the climb a steep but technically easy affair. The ridge is several miles from the nearest road and the various approaches take from one to two days depending on speed of party, snow and glacier conditions.

 

All approaches lead to the narrow Carbon Glacier which can vary from a frozen highway on a cold spring morning to an impassable jumble of crevasses and towering seracs (ice blocks) later in the summer. When the glacier is badly broken up, only expert ice climbers may be able to ascend the approach. There is no other feasible approach because the Carbon Glacier is flanked by two steep and crumbling ridges which descend the northeast and northwest corners of the mountain, Curtis Ridge and Ptarmigan Ridge, respectively.

 

Since the late 1970’s eleven climbers had died attempting the ridge. Most of these climbers were relatively inexperienced in climbing snow and ice. They were all male, they were all in their thirties or younger and they were all attracted by the promise of a classic route with a big reputation which also promised not to be too difficult. For example, there are no vertical ice or rock walls to be climbed.

 

Climbers of modest experience who know their climbing limitations usually believe they can climb a Grade III route, as Liberty Ridge is usually rated. Grade III denotes a route which should take a competent party much of the day in good weather. A grade IV will often take all day and for slower climbers may require a bivouac. Given lack of snow and a great deal of ice instead, a common late summer condition, Liberty Ridge becomes a grade IV route. Climbing ice is much more difficult and dangerous than climbing firm snow. Even though the climbers wear crampons (spikes fastened on the boots), should a slip occur the climber cannot arrest (stop) with an ice axe on ice as on snow. Therefore, when climbing steep ice climbers place a series of ice screws (threaded metal tubes) along their route through which the rope is threaded. The leading climber on the rope places the screws (anywhere from 10’ to 100’ apart depending on steepness and conditions) and the last climber on the rope removes them. Every so often the last climber must be brought up even with the leader and turn over all of the screws to the leader. Climbers who expect little trouble with ice on the Liberty Ridge route may take no screws or only two or three. Climbers use a similar system of protection for rock climbing by using pitons (spikes pounded in with a hammer) or removable metal chocks or camming devices.

 

Given the relative lateness of the climbing season (late July) I choose to take three ice screws for protection. We would also take crampons, 110’ rope, ice axes, helmets, a stout three-person tent, and other specialized equipment. We were myself, Joe Abbott, 48, attorney from Everson, Wa., Howard Evans, 56, professor in the department of education, Western Washington University, Bellingham, Wa., and my brother, Terry Abbott, 46, telephone company manager, Everett, Wa. Howard and I had climbed together frequently for ten years and had climbed several grade III routes, some involving steep ice and snow. Terry had climbed occasionally for seven or eight years. Terry underwent quadruple heart bypass surgery in 1985. Howard and I were fit enough to participate in occasional fun runs and enjoy our climbs. Terry walks vigorously on a regular basis. None of us claimed to be world class climbers or anything remotely approaching such ability. We were experienced but physically average climbers.

 

The weather had been mild for a week or so preceeding our climb but the forecast was for steadily rising temperatures and freezing levels. I was concerned about warm temperatures which can contribute to unstable snow and ice and increased rockfall. However, since lowland temperatures were not predicted to be extreme (mid-eighties), I believed we could avoid problems by very early starts on climbing days.

 

I had previously climbed the ridge twice, in June 1986 and June 1988. Howard Evans and I had also accompanied other, climbers on a climb of nearby East Willis Wall in June 1989. The Willis Wall routes have a reputation for frequent and hazardous rockfall and icefall. We were confident Liberty Ridge would be much easier.

 

We arrived late in the afternoon of the 27th at White River ranger station where one registers to climb north side routes in Mt. Rainier National Park. We estimated three days was sufficient time to complete the climb and indicated a return date of July 30 on the registration cards. We were informed that as late as July 20 a party had successfully climbed the route - although they reported the Carbon Glacier as badly broken up.

 

After registering, we hiked routinely for three hours and camped just short of St. Elmo Pass on a patch of snow.

 

On Saturday, July 28 we crossed lower Curtis Ridge, placing that night’s camp on the edge of the Carbon Glacier. We were deliberately moving slowly to acclimatize to altitude while avoiding fatigue.

 

In an attempt to arrive early and have a long rest at the only real bivouac site on Liberty Ridge, we broke camp and headed up the Carbon Glacier at 3:30 am on Sunday, July 29th. We immediately encountered route-finding problems which were to continue throughout a very long day. We climbed from the 7,000’ campsite to 9,000’ on the East side of Liberty Ridge, only to be stopped by large crevasses. At midmorning we descended about 600’ and ascended again to 9,000’ on the West side of the ridge, again to be stopped by crevasses. At that point we could observe what appeared to be a feasible route in the center of the Carbon Glacier immediately at the toe of the ridge. We descended once more, then ascended toward the supposed ramp and discovered instead huge seracs separated by crevasses. After a blind lead or two we were able to climb through the serac maze utilizing belays from ice screws.

 

Now we approached the lower ridge itself and what I had been dreading; a 50º mud wall complete with imbedded but terribly loose boulders. Further, frequent rockfall was coming down the face. The ridge was a tottering, dusty, rotten mass, shedding its outer layer minute by minute. The steep face was the only way onto the ridge. There was no choice if we were to proceed. The wall was about 100’ high. I led up and in a few minutes was clinging to the uppermost climbable portion. Immediately above was a rotten overhang. Next, I would have to traverse right on the loose and questionable material for about 120’. I kept my crampons on the whole time and they seemed to help in the loose, dusty surface. I edged across carefully, dislodging an occasional barrage, to the dismay of those below. After much eating of dust, struggle and trepidation I was able to reach a secure stance and belay the rest of the party. When the others reached my position we could relax as the remainder of the climb to high camp promised to be only a scramble.

 

Following a few bites of lunch we began scrambling unroped up the west flank rock of the steep ridge. Thumb Rock at about 10,000’ is the only suitable campsite on the upper ridge. At a point about 400’ below Thumb Rock the climbing ahead became steep and we decided to rope up. No sooner did we begin moving upward than we heard shouts from above, warning of severe rockfall danger. Despite the danger, the route we had selected was the only feasible path upward. All else was even more dangerous. Following another 30 or 40 minutes of upward struggle, we were able to join the two shouters, young (early 20’s) climbers from New Jersey. The reason for their shouting became apparent. They had been hit by rockfall and the leader’s pack lost, along with his sleeping bag, their rope, tent poles, ice screws and cold food. Also, due to the warm afternoon temperatures the leader was wearing only boots, poly underwear and running shorts. All of his warm clothing was in the lost pack. He was an experienced climber but understandably concerned because of the lost gear. We assured him that we carried quite a bit of extra clothing and food and would distribute some of it as soon as we reached the Thumb Rock site just above.

 

Arriving at Thumb Rock an hour or so later we did share our extra clothing and equip the other climber for a night without a sleeping bag by giving him two fleece jackets and other odds and ends of clothing to sleep in.

 

After a short summer night we were up at 3:00 am and heading upslope, five men on a single 110’ rope. The climber without clothes was equipped with all manner of handouts such as our spare mittens, a light sweater tied around his head and nylon wind shirt and pants that my brother just happened to have in his pack. The snow surface was frozen with an inch or more of ice on the surface. Though we could break through and cut or kick a step with great effort, it soon became obvious that this would take too much energy and we were forced to begin front pointing on our crampons and establishing belays. We carried on in this manner for many hours, taking occasional breaks on rock outcroppings. We passed the steep sections where a slip could be fatal during the morning hours and slowly began to relax.

 

Late in the afternoon, just as the climbing was becoming easier at about 13,000’, we began to be concerned about an ominous black cloud moving toward the summit from the West. Soon we began to see lightning flashes and feel the first rushes of wind. We could also see torrents of precipitation pouring from the clouds. Suddenly we were enveloped in the storm with pounding hail and a flashing and crashing all around. We were in a bowl-like depression a few hundred feet (perhaps 500) below the summit of the ridge which is known as Liberty Cap. From Liberty Cap one can make a walking descent off the mountain. Now the hail increased in size (half inch and larger) and became a torrent. Despite Goretex parkas and mitts we were hurting and had to get under some sort of cover on the 25º slope. Lightning was hitting all around spreading fear in our group. The temperature was down to 15º F and the wind gusting to 30 mph. We pulled out the fly of our tent and crouched under it, attempting to sit on our packs. Above us the slope was steeper and the hail flowed down the slope in a continuing avalance. Within 15 or 20 minutes it had become a moving, almost liquid pile around and against us, threatening to bury packs and equipment and/or push us down the slope. We were now shouting queries and instructions at each other above the noise of the storm. I was beginning to freeze as I had given my fleece jacket to the fellow who lost his pack and I had little on under a Goretex shell. We had to move fast and the only possible shelter was a crevasse about 200’ upslope. We frantically shouldered packs and began fighting upslope through the now thigh-deep river of flowing hail. Someone was watching over these poor climbers because it was then that the storm began to wane.

 

When we reached the crevasse we observed it was pretty much filled in with a cavern extending back under the slope above. I suggested camping inside as the hour was late and we were tired and cold….but…..no takers. The ice slope above was 40º and we needed to climb another 200-300 vertical feet to reach the level area of Liberty Cap where we could pitch our tent.

 

The fun began. The climber with no clothes was a strong ice climber so he led upward placing the ice screws for protection. When he was out a rope-length he belayed me up. Then he and I cut a small ledge in the ice (long enough for five people). Then we belayed the other three climbers up. With all five climbers clipped in to one ice screw!!, the leader climbed upward with 2 screws to establish a new belay station after another 80 feet or so. Tedious! We were too tired and cold to be scared. Finally, we were on top in 40 mph wind and a complete whiteout.

 

I was freezing and the “shakes” not far away. The others wanted me to route-find off the mountain since I had climbed the route previously. My response was that we were an accident waiting to happen and “get that tent up”! Soon all five of us were piled in the three-person tent with feet on heads and heads on feet, etc. However, that was good for the climber with no clothes.

 

The next morning was glorious, clear and cold; about 5ºF. This photo (on top of Liberty Cap) shows the author (in yellow) next to the fellow equipped with borrowed clothing. Howard Evans is on the left. Our tent had been pitched about 200’ from this spot. The next picture is from a different climb showing Terry (with snow on him) who had just crawled out of the crevasse he fell into less than 100’ from the top of Liberty Cap!

 

We considered Liberty Cap (14,100’) our summit and descended the mountain from there since most of us had been to the main summit of Columbia Crest (14,410’) on other climbs.

 

This climb turned out OK for everyone because we had enough clothing and equipment (although the rope was a bit short for 5 climbers). Again and again on other climbs I was to discover that I had “just enough”.

 

 

 

Joe Abbott

 

 

[Bronco]

Great story Mr. Abbot!

[WallyG]

Hey, Joe: Very glad we (you, me, Jeff and Tony) had a much better experience on LR when we did it in 1988.

Wally

Edited June 6, 2014 by WallyG

[Jon H]

Great story. I love tales of adversity overcome by teamwork in the mountains.