WallyG

Hey, Joe: Very glad we (you, me, Jeff and Tony) had a much better experience on LR when we did it in 1988. Wally

It's a very nice area, even if close to LA hordes. Some time ago, decades, I did an overnight ski ascent of San Jacinto in winter, coming up from the Idylwild side. Never saw any other tracks.

My earlier post may have been a bit too critical, so let me just add that I am glad you got the climb in and am sure you all learned valuable lessons from it. IMO you should do the route again sometime because when you catch it in good condition(s) it is a magnificent route. Best of luck to you all.

I agree with other posts about your climb. I'm a little surprised the rangers didn't give you more information and warnings about conditions on the route, which were obviously bad. While you were lucky to have completed the route without serious consequences, I hope you've learned some very big lessons and will be much more prudent on your next adventure. The 20 hours to ascend roughly 4 thousand feet, carbon to thumb, should have convinced you to back off because that is way too long and either you weren't ready for this climb or the route was way out of condition, or both. Four of us climbed LR some years back, and between us all we had about 80 years of climbing experience, most of it in the PNW, and also between us we had backed off from this route about 4 times over a several year period, mostly due to weather conditions on the mountain. If you had talked or corresponded with other climbers, like those on this list..., you could have learned much more than the guide books tell you, and, perhaps, have benefited from that knowledge. I can only hope, and say again, you realize how lucky you were and that you all learn from it.

Excellent TR, DB. Years ago, like the mid 80s when the approach road was open, I did a South Twin to Skookum scramble, approaching from between N and S Twins, and always thought a full traverse of the range would be a great trip. I can see from your TR it still would be. It's a magical place, imo. Thanks, Wally - another AST refugee. :-)