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Conditions to climb Rainier

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Hey all, I've been mountaineering for a couple years now. I've never been up Rainier and wanted to ask what conditions you look for while deciding when to climb it.


I found a website that gives conditions and forecasts at various elevations: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Rainier/forecasts/4392. There's wind, sky conditions, temperature, freezing level etc.


Then http://www.nwac.us for the avy forecast.


So before you head to Paradise, what conditions do you look for and do you have a cap on any characteristic that would have you cancel the trip (ex: if winds are at 90 mph you're staying home)?

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Here's another good resource for you.


Personally, I like a stable high pressure system. Low chance of precip, light to moderate winds. I've been on Rainier in some nasty weather (high winds, cold, low vis) and it's not fun at all. It can be scary. I can handle cold, but that's subjective to everyone's body. But, I'm not going out with -20F temps, at least not for Rainier.


If you haven't climbed Rainier yet, I wouldn't advise going up in winter.

Edited by ARBrandon

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i think you need a long window of high pressure...like that found in july. like 2 weeks of high pressure. ive done it in april, but had to rush down in a growing lenticular, and hunker in 50 mph winds wearing expedition mitts, balaclava and goggles. attempted in june when high winds forced us off the mountain, and once in may when avy conditions were so bad the fuhrer finger slid the entire coulior.


not saying you cant do it at other times than july, but that is when the highest success ratio is.

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