[TR] Mt Hood - Cooper's Face (North Face Aborted Attempt) 1/6/2014

[bonathanjarrett]

Trip: Mt Hood - Cooper's Face (North Face Aborted Attempt)

 

Date: 1/6/2014

 

Trip Report:

In short, we set out to climb the right gulley on the North Face of Mt Hood. In summation, we did not think that it was "in" without some rock climbing. My camera died the moment I pulled it from the case, but you can take my word for the fact that there was almost no ice on the first or second ice steps.

 

The consolation prize was the plumb line up the face parallel to the gullies. We found variable conditions: dribs and drabs of ice/snice here and there between the rocks, some hard neve, wind slab, as well as some sugar snow.

 

For the sake of ambiguation, I am going to call the line(marked below) Cooper's Face.

 

We merged with the true Cooper Spur route at about 10,500'.

 

Lest anyone think this is a chest beat about a "F.A.", it seems that the line has also been skied.

http://skisickness.com/post/vt107-mt.-hood-north-northeast-face

 

 

Gear Notes:

We carried a whole bunch of metal things that we never used. It was easily solo-able, but the exposure was there for sure.

 

Approach Notes:

Late night stroll up the Tilly Jane Trail.

 

The Tilly Jane Hut is locked. The Stone Hut on the spur is dug out.

[jrex]

Did you guys descend your route or carry over? Good job on making the best of no ice...

[bonathanjarrett]

We did it in a single push from the trailhead near the Cooper Spur Ski Area, starting shortly after 2AM, summiting about 10AM, and then descending down to Timberline for a car shuttle around.

[Ben Beckerich]

I've never done it, and it's been a while since anyone has done it (or at least reported it), but you can actually climb the rock to the left of the second step.. Low 5th class with solid (alpine volcano) holds, in frozen conditions. I wouldn't attempt it if the temp is or has been above 30 degrees recently.

 

The first step is 4th class, when bare.

 

Bring pins!

[Sanchez]

Is the Tilly Jane locking thing a recent development? Kind of a bummer, made for a nice break spot when going to the N Side.

[Ben Beckerich]

Is the Tilly Jane locking thing a recent development? Kind of a bummer, made for a nice break spot when going to the N Side.

 

New as of year before last, if I remember right. You can still chill in the front area and use the bathroom (steal TP, basically)... I think there's even a loft or deck thing that's accessible from the front. Can't remember if I've been up there or if it's enclosed at all, but you can certainly find a spot out of the wind.