[TR] Mexico Road Trip - a few 1/6/2014

[fgw]

Trip: Mexico Road Trip - a few

 

Date: 1/6/2014

 

Trip Report:

Having done two trips to El Potrero Chico in the last two years, we’ve always wondered what other multi-pitch fun could be found in Mexico. Two weeks ago we got a bit of a sampling. A ten day road trip through central and northern Mexico. Historic pueblos magicos, military convoys, shitty weather, bloody car wrecks, tequila, good friends and some multi-pitch climbing including new (for us) areas and a touch of the good old El Potrero Chico.

 

Oregon’s Menagerie? No – central Mexico’s Parque Nacional El Chico. A four pitch affair on the sunny first (and last) day:

 

Same formation seen on the way down:

 

Pueblo of Mineral del Chico in the state of Hidalgo:

 

Starting up the 5-pitch (bailed after 4) Mas Alla De Las Estrellas (5.10b) on the La Tanda formation. A mix of fog and drizzle interrupted by rain. The moss sure seemed to like it though:

 

Shirley arriving at our pitch 4 highpoint:

 

Moving to Queretaro in search of that Mexican sunshine:

 

The 350 meter Pena de Bernal towering over the rolling countryside in Queretaro:

 

El jefe:

 

The postcard perfect Mexico – old church at the center of Bernal:

 

The Pena had some of the funnest face climbing we’ve ever done – crisp crimps for fingers and grippy facets for feet – did two 6-pitch routes (both 10-) and were wishing the place had more lines to offer:

 

Shirley on Via Del Padre (5.10-):

 

Shirley on the summit:

 

Christmas evening in Bernal:

 

After that we shot up north 700km to Hidalgo in Nuevo Leon (the “northern front”) :

 

Where we met up with our friends Eric & Lucie as well as with some shitty, shitty weather (Potero Chico):

 

Culo del Gato (~45min away) was wet but seemed more climbable. Hiking up to Crescent Moon Buttress (8P, 10-…the right hand skyline in photo):

 

Good climbing despite the wet rock:

 

But the main reason to do this route is the fun tyrolean you get to do on the descent:

 

Nuevo Leon desert outside of the village of Mina:

 

Day 2 in EPC stared out rainy but proved climbable after lunch. Did two short (but very fun) routes. Pepe y Lupe (3 pitch, 5.10):

 

…and 4-pitch Agua de Coco (10+). Caugtht a bit of darkness on the last rappel:

 

But we were not alone to be running late for tequila:

 

Home cooking & tequila:

 

Third day in EPC (2nd & last sunny day of the trip), we climbed Snott Girlz (7 pitch, 10+). The funnest route we’ve done in EPC!

 

Some views from the route:

 

6th pitch & a twisty rope

 

Next day woke up to some downpours & so drove south back towards Mexico City in hopes of doing another climb in a new area…unfortunately were never really able to escape the shit weather:

 

High altitude village of San Jeronimo in the state of Hidalgo:

 

Instead killed off the remaining ½ day sightseeing in Mexico City including trying to see the tequila and mescal museum:

 

Also saw what I can only guess was an NSA listening post disguised as a taco stand:

 

More pics & words on our blog: http://chossclimbers.com/testing/mexico/mexico-road-trip/

 

 

Gear Notes:

QD's & coffee.

Edited January 22, 2014 by fgw

[Eric K]

Looks like a super fun trip, Mexico seems to have a ton of potential.

[Winter]

Looks great! Thanks for the TR. That move around the outside corner on Snot Girlz is so fun.

[JasonG]

Great write up on the blog, loved it!

[fgw]

Much thanks guys! Chris, yeah Snott Girlz (the whole package) is as fun as cragging gets - every pitch was a gem

[wayne]

Wow great storytelling, sorry about the weather though. love the layout on the blog! Text explaining the photos, and the map. Of course I am stealing it all. Thanks

[fgw]

Wayne - thank you. Happy to hear you like the format.