jennecarter Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress/ Northeast Buttress Date: 12/28/2013 Trip Report: Great day on Chair Peak. We started out at Alpental a little before 7am. Reached the summit probably around 3:30, beautiful sunset from up there! Got to the the 2nd rap station at around dark and back at the cars around 8pm. We did the route in 4 long pitches on 60 m ropes. Simu-climbing at the end/ start of the 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches. In hindsight, we felt the "crux" was the 1st pitch with unconsolidated snow over rock on the traverse section. Protected that with a piton (also a fixed pin on that pitch before traverse). The 3rd/ "waterfall" pitch wasn't bad at all in it's current formation. Picked out and not overhanging with a great belay anchor of fixed pins. Overall, the protection was really good. Thanks Damien, Tristan and Allie for the fabulous teamwork. I learned a ton (as I do on every climb) and had fun. One of my partners dropped his camera over the waterfall. If you happen to find it, please email me at jennecarter@gmail.com. Thanks! Gear Notes: Rack: We needed/ used: 4 pitons, 3 pickets (the pickets placed well in the snow possibly could have used 1 more), 2 short screws (ice not great for screws but we found a couple of spots), and 3 small cams. Found 4 fixed pins, a slung boulder and plenty of trees/ scrub trees to use. No floatation needed. 60 half ropes / double rope rappel Approach Notes: Crampons from the parking lot. We hiked the summer trail/ snow lake trail but heard from others that the winter trail is also fine. Quote
jayhawk Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Sounds like you went right on the first pitch (unconsolidated snow on traverse)? Fun times. Quote
tvClimber Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 Yep we went right on the first pitch. I was able to kick in a large step on the Traverse, but it was pretty narrow. Have you gone left? I thought about going that way but had no idea what pro would be like? Quote
jayhawk Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 I have not gone left. It looked easier than right earlier this month, but pro looked dubious. Quote
kevino Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Super warm and raining up there yesterday. Lots of stuff falling down. Quote
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