KaskadskyjKozak Posted October 14, 2013 Posted October 14, 2013 Trip: The Tooth - S Face Date: 10/13/2013 Trip Report: Premature snow has not shut down alpine rock yet! In fact the Tooth was suprisingly overrun for a mid-October day (16 people by our count!). But then again the forecast was pretty nice... Temps were in the 40's much of the day. Snow begins a few hundred feet above Source Lake in the boulder-field basin. The snow is patchy and combined with verglas on the rocks in the morning quite a bit treacherous, requiring concentration, deliberate moves and mindful foot placements. On the way out, the issue is more about punching through the soft stuff. There is a good boot tread all the way up to follow. The route is 99% snow free with just a bit on the scramble pitch (more muddy than snowy), but you can avoid it. A great way to spend a fall day. Pics follow. On the approach above Source Lake: A bit of snow in the approach gully: My belayer on P1: View down from the final pitch: View down the basin from the summit: Rapelling: The basin on the way out. Gear Notes: Trekking poles were nice. No need for 'pons or ice axe. Quote
terrible_ted Posted October 14, 2013 Posted October 14, 2013 Good thinking. We went up on Wednesday - postholing all the way up to the pass, a little more snow on the route. -t Quote
pclark Posted October 14, 2013 Posted October 14, 2013 Thanks for the update on conditions! I'm wanting to hit the tooth this week, but didn't know how much snow to expect. Quote
Devin27 Posted October 14, 2013 Posted October 14, 2013 Did you by chance look over at the improbably traverse on guye and see if it still looked snow free? Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted October 14, 2013 Author Posted October 14, 2013 Did you by chance look over at the improbably traverse on guye and see if it still looked snow free? Guye was occluded by fog/clouds both when we came in and when we left, so I did not see for sure. However, based one what I saw on the Tooth and on the lower slope/talus field of Guye, I would say it is snow free, and if not today, than probably by Friday with the sun and warm temps. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted October 15, 2013 Author Posted October 15, 2013 Molodci!!! Spacibo, bratchik! Skoro nuzhno chto-to vmesto sdelat'... Quote
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