Canadian Rockies

[CodyICE]

12/13

 

Went to Lake Louise Falls. Climbed first two pitches of 3 - 3+. Top pitch was formed but possible 5+ - 6 wasn't into climbing something like that on first climb of the year, but we saw two girls climb it. Ice was a bit wet but it's cold enough now it should be fat.

 

12/14

 

Drove to Mount Rundle and climbed The Professor falls. Had to hike around first two pitches because it was a bit wet. The last pitch of 5+ was too wet to climb also. The temp was just above freezing, but it's a bit colder now it should be in good shape. We were able to catch a ride out of the park with a couple guys that had just finished the Terminator, a 150m 6+.

 

12/15

 

Went to the Weeping wall of Icefields Parkway. The wall was very wet with lots of Ice fall. Started to get stormy so we bailed after the first two pitches on the right side of the wall. The whole wall needs a week or two of coldness to form.

 

12/16

 

Got an early start on Polar Circus, just south of weeping wall. The bottom 7 pitches are in great shape. Ran out of day light at the bottom of the top pitches. They looked ausome. The pencil was a long way from being formed.

 

12/17

 

Hiked up to Murchisom Falls. Made the top at 3 and made three nice rapells to the bottom just at darkfall. The temp in the canyon was -8C. The Ice was in pretty good shape. There was a great belay cave right before a 25 meter pitch of WI5. The rest was all WI4 - WI4+. An extremely sweet climb.

 

 

I'm going to Cody WY from the 26-6 when I get back I will post info on it. I took tons of pictures so I will post them when I get back also.

 

 

-Cody

[Chongo]

Man those grades sound SOFT to me. Like about a grade soft. Professors 5+? What you smokin man?

[CodyICE]

The last pitch wasn't fully formed. It was 90 degress with no resting places and at least 30 meters high. The Ice was soft so placing gear would have been quite tough. Grades can be different in the early season.

[daler]

The last pitch is fully formed but I do agree with codyice. It is not grade 4 as usual. But 5+ is a stretch. I climbed it a week ago and with some sneaky behind the curtain move one can protect it very nicely and ascend it at about 5-.

 

dale

[snoboy]

4 or 5-

It's ice for cryin' out loud!

[layton]

I'd call it (last pitch of Prof) a 5, but remember RATINGS DON'T MEAN SHIT!!!

 

I'd hop on a 5+ w/solid ice way before I hopped on a 4 slush pilar w/no chance of solid pro -as was the case on the last pitch of Proff, and Linda Ice 9.

 

The final pilar of Louise is only 4+ b/c there is a groove you can stem and get no-hands rests in although it looks like a 6.

I wouldn't give murchison any harder than 4+ past the cave. I've seen (and climbed that pitch) in much harder conditions. The ice was solid and the steep part was short (although pro-was very very hard to get...ie don't bother).

 

Anyway, who cares they are all awesome and hard.