[TR] Mount Olympus - North side of the summit block 7/22/2013

[ftrain]

Trip: Mount Olympus - North side of the summit block

 

Date: 7/22/2013

 

Trip Report:

It was our first trip to Mount Olympus and the approach though long and flat (virtually no elevation gain for the first 12.5 miles), was spectacular. Hemlocks over 8' in diameter, broadleaf maple at 5' and giant alders. We even encountered a 6X6 elk that took about 10 minutes of polite conversation before he would get off the trail.

As we cross the Hoh over a high bridge and started to ascend we ran into some climbing rangers who were returning from recovering the body of a climber who had fallen on the standard route of the summit block. This event was to weigh heavily on us the night before we climbed.

Nearing Glacier Meadows the trail has been washed out and the Park Service has installed a "ladder" that descends about 100' to a small creek.

Glacier Meadows is a bit of a misnomer. The meadow consists of about 100m of false helebore. Campsites are in the trees and the mosquitoes were fierce. There is good water with easy access, though.

We left camp about 3:00 and headed up to the moraine, dropped down to the Blue Glacier, aiming for a large rock band on the other side. Crevasses here are generally small, and easily negotiated. The rock on the other side was grippy and made for and easy walk up to the base of Snow Dome.

 

 

Snow on the Dome was soft, but firm. Climbing was easy. Just before the bergshrund we met two climbers who were turning back. They were the last people we saw for the rest of the climb. The 'shrund is in good shape and will probably be so for a while.

Crystal Pass views were incredible, views of Rainier, Baker, Adams and St Helens.

Winding up to a rocky plateau, the route descends steeply on scree the goes up steep (60 degrees?) snow to a flat spot at the base of the north side of the summit block. The standard route is to the left of this snow slope. It is a scramble, but the rock is incredibly bad, and appears virtually unprotectable.

The north side has decent rock, that is protectable. We used a couple of small cams and slings for the first two short pitches with an easy scramble to the top.

Views are of course spectacular

The snow was soft on the was down, but still no post holing. We did punch through a couple of crevasses on the way back across the Blue, but didn't go in.

We slept at Glacier Meadows and hiked out the seventeen miles and drove the 5 hours home the next day.

The contrast between the rain forest and the high alpine environment and the solitude make the long slog in worth it.

 

Gear Notes:

usually glacier stuff, small rack and slings

bug dope

 

Approach Notes:

Bugs are vicious

[ARBrandon]

nice work! I can't wait to get out that way.

[JasonG]

A classic climb, glad you had a great trip!

 

Although it makes for a longer trip, camping on the snow dome is a pretty spectacular way to experience Olympus. Watching the sun set into the Pacific from Panic Peak is one reason, and another is being able to climb some of the other summits of Olympus. Not to mention that you can get off the schedule of other climbing parties and assure yourself of having the summit to yourself.

 

Smart move climbing the rap route, it is about the only solid rock on the summit.

[ftrain]

Thanks, Jason. Good tip on snow dome. Would be awesome sunset from there. As luck would have it we only saw two other people all day and they turned back at the bergshrund.

[JasonG]

Wow, that is quiet for the summertime on Olympus! Sounds like a great trip.