Eldorado Beta

[jerrypro]

Does anyone have good beta on linking Eldorado and Dorado in one trip? Gear beta od Dorado?

 

Thanks

[DPS]

Do you mean Eldorado and Dorado Needle? What route on Dorado? SW Buttress or North Ridge?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

About 1 hour from the base of the E ridge of Eldo (the popular high camp) to the col by Dorado. You could easily combo the two by camping at Eldo, and walking over to the col by Dorado. The N side route is shorter (3 pitches IIRC). My guess is a small rack - lots o places with that info (summitpost.org, Selected Climbs in the N. Cascades)

[Le Piston]

There are lots of good trip reports here to get beta. Are doing the standard East Ridge route on Eldorado and the Northwest Ridge on Dorado Needle? If so, I'd suggest camping at the base of Eldorado's East Ridge. It makes a convenient base for both peaks. Getting to Dorado Needle from there head North to the col between Tepeh Towers (approx 8050 ft). Drop down onto the McAllister Glacier heading Northwest. There were crevasses open when I climbed it, so we had to weave around a bit. There was steep snow leading up to the base of the Northwest Ridge. There was about 2 pitches of lower-mid 5th class rock to the summit. We took a small rack up to 2.5 inches. We did one rappel and downclimbed back to the snow. I hope that helps. Do check out the trip reports. This picture is from the col at Tepeh Towers. Cheers!

[jerrypro]

Thanks all