[TR] South Early Winters Spire - South Arête 5/4/2013

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: South Early Winters Spire - South Arête

 

Date: 5/4/2013

 

Trip Report:

 

This weekend a few friends and I had planned a climb of Das Toof, but with the glorious weather forecast we opted for a longer trip out to WA pass. We left town early Saturday and arrived at the Blue Lake TH just around 9:30. We barely found a spot to park with our late arrival, but managed.

 

We were a bit worried about the special avy statement issued by NWAC last week, but as it turned out, we had firm snow all the way to the base of the route. We used snow shoes for traction and saw a few skiers with ski crampons.

 

CG, MM, and MS on the approach. T-shirt weather and sun in May!

 

View up SW Couloir - note last two folks in a large party on the route:

 

Cornice from hell looming from above and abutting Blue Lake Peak:

 

There was one party of two starting up the base of the route when we arrived. The route looked mostly dry, but based on our traverse we worried about some snow patches, so most of us kept our boots on. CG led up first with MS and I led up next with MM.

 

MM tops out on P1:

 

There were some shenanigans at the first pitch. Firstly, the first party was knocking down chunks of snow and some ice. Then as I topped out on the pitch, CG started doing the same. Here I noticed the first party was stopped at the rap anchor and preparing to bail. Turns out the chimney was wet with some lingering ice at the crux. CG worked on kicking out a few steps here and pulled himself over. Well done!

 

MS following on P2:

 

View down second pitch:

 

I followed and brought up MM. By this time another party of 3 was behind us. They helped coach my partner through the chimney moves (thanks!).

 

Since we were not sure what lay ahead, I opted to shorten the rope in half and simulclimb the rest of the route. This proved to be a wise idea. Some of the easier parts above were snowy or wet, so we stayed on the crest and rock and had to put in some extra moves here and there.

 

 

By the time we arrived at the Whaleback, a large party was rappeling the SW couloir.

 

View down to the Whaleback:

 

View up to summit:

 

Our timing actually worked well, getting us to the top with the party behind us - so just 7 total on the summit. That party opted to descend the climbing route. We figured we'd be just as slow getting down that as up, so we rappeled the SW couloir instead (2 double rope raps) and then plunged stepped the lower half.

 

MM about to set off the on her first alpine rap:

 

On her way:

 

We got back our packs pretty late - 6:30 or so. The hike out involved quite a bit of deep postholing, and our boots were water-logged.

 

Nevertheless, a great day out! And we just managed to make it to Mazama for copious brews and grill fare before closing time.

 

Gear Notes:

The usual.

 

Approach Notes:

Park in turnout on Hwy 20. Snow from there to the base of the route.

[rob]

fun!

[Whatcomboy]

Nice. Might head up and do the couloir. Snow conditions look good.