[TR] Mt. Baker - Title: Watson Traverse in a Day. 4/5/2013

[kerwinl]

Trip: Mt. Baker - Title: Watson Traverse in a Day.

 

Date: 3/30/2013

 

Trip Report:

Title: Watson Traverse in a Day.

Date: 3/30/13

People Present: Kerwin Loukusa and Pablo Zuleta

 

Stats:

Distance: 19.5 Miles

Vertical Gain: 8,500’

Vertical Loss: 10,500’

Max Slope Ascent: 65°

Max Slope Descent: 50°

Time: 16 hours

 

Description of Route: Watson Traverse, West->East from Mt. Baker Mountaineers Lodge to Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead.

 

Began at the Baker Mountaineers lodge and travelled east to Artist Point, then south side of Table Mountain and north side of Ptarmigan Ridge to Coleman Pinnacle, then to the Portals, through the middle portal down to the lower Park Glacier.  Continued skinning up and onto the Park Glacier. Up the middle of the Park Glacier in search of a place to cross the Bergschrund.  Once we made the challenging cross onto the Park headwall we continued up  to the climbers left of the Cockscomb. Once we gained the Cockscomb ridge we then continued to the true summit of Mt. Baker for a spectacular view. After resting for a bit we continued down the Roman Wall in ski mode, down the Coleman Glacier near the edges of the Heliotrope Ridge and then traversed down to Grouse Creek.  Once we reached the Heliotrope Trailhead at approx. 3,700’ elevation we continued down the existing snow covered road to our car..

 

Description of Snow Conditions:

Rain crust and corn on ascent and east side of Mt. Baker Summit

Powder and mank on north side of Mt. Baker for descent.

 

Weather Conditions: 

Sunshine throughout the day with little to no wind.

 

Approximate Temperatures:

20s AM         

30-40s PM

 

Avalanche Forecast: Moderate avalanche forecast moving to considerable on sun exposed slopes below 7,000’. Evidence of slides from previous days, but did not observe any avalanche activity day of trip.

 

Field Tests/ Results: None

Special Information to be noted:

Gps Track: GPS TRACK

Video: 

 

 

Route Planning Map 1

Route Planning Map 2

 

Route Photos:

Ascent

 

Descent

 

Other Photos:

Mt. Baker in the Alpenglow and moon

 

Pablo with The Portals in the back.

 

Kerwin skinning up the Park Glacier

 

Kerwin testing the snow bridge over the Bergschrund below the Park Glacier Headwall

 

Technical Gear List:

 

Required

-Standard Glacier Kit (Harness, Screw, Slings, Prusiks).

-Ski Crampons

-30M Glacier Rope

-Crampons

-Whippet or Axe

-Balls

Suggested

-Picket Per Person (Didn’t Use)

-2nd Axe or similar if using a whippet(for headwall)

-Jetboil for melting water

Carried, but did not use

-Tent and Sleeping Bags

 

Its a great route get out and do it. We didnt see a soul the entire day except when descending the Roman Wall. Perfect Pacific Northwest Day.

Edited April 11, 2013 by kerwinl

[The Cascade Kid]

Nicely done. Do you really think a second tool is necessary? Whippet and axe perhaps...

[kerwinl]

Re: 2nd tool

 

Agrees ice tool is overkill, I used my whippet and a corsa nano tech. Idealy something short and light. I think we're saying the same thing with different words.

[JoshK]

Cool trip! , id like to do this. How do you measure slope angle? Seems a bit high to me. Descent route is standard D/C route,right? I don't remember Roman Wall being much more than 35 degrees.

[BootsandPants]

Wow, that's awesome! Way to take advantage of that weather window!

[kerwinl]

Josh,

 

I pulled the info off the GPS track. Agreed that Roman Wall average slope is much lower then 50, I think that number came from the section(near the Burgschrund) at the top which rolls over.

 

Cheers!

[brandonstar]

Amazing TR... wow

 

I've been aspiring to do a similar trip for a while now! Would you be able to upload your google track file? I'd love to take a closer look at it!

 

-Brandon

[kerwinl]

GPS track is up now, just import into google earth.

Edited April 11, 2013 by kerwinl