[TR] Mt Si Haystack - East Face crack system 3/25/2013

[mountainsloth]

Trip: Mt Si Haystack - East Face crack system

 

Date: 3/25/2013

 

Trip Report:

My friend is training for Denali and needed a friend to hike up to Si with her. I said sure, but if I am going to humor her, she has to humor me by carrying rock gear up there for some potentially sketchy, loose, and short rock climbing on the haystack. (Others could add pointless to the running adjectives). She was training after all, and the gear will serve its purpose whether it is used or just gets taken for a walk.

 

The east face is surprisingly inviting with plenty of options, that is, if you don't mind semi loose rock.

 

We first tried the chimney/gully thing right of center.

 

I found ice in the chimney, decided to climb it anyway, took a scary whipper after a hold broke and decided it was not worth it, so I down climbed.

 

After reconsidering our options, we decided the crack/flake in the 1st photo left of center looked inviting. Judging from the relative cleanliness of it and the bolted anchor along the way it looked to have been climbed before. No surprise of course, it is Mt Si. It was actually pretty fun!

 

I am surprised I have not heard of anyone climbing the haystack in this way.

Anyone know the history?

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

The flake took gear to 3/4.

 

Approach Notes:

You know the approach

[matt_warfield]

Compared to all the good rock in the area, the Haystack ranks very low in quality. I am sure it has some history but think about a higher quality cardio/climbing combo of doing Si hiking with a pack with several gallons of water, pour it all out at the Haystack, salute the crappy rock, then go back down to go to E38 or Little Si after for some climbing. Just my opinion.

Edited March 27, 2013 by matt_warfield

[CaleHoopes]

What the hell, it's looked fun to me before. Plus I have a bunch of friends who have been to the base but NEVER gone to the top of the haystack. This looks way more fun than the crappy scramble IMHO. So, the rock there on that flake wasn't horrible? And you topped out on that?

[matt_warfield]

I agree with the crappy scramble on the back. I am amazed that there aren't more accidents there.

 

 

Edited March 27, 2013 by matt_warfield

[mountainsloth]

yea, the crack we climbed was pretty solid and took gear well. The second pitch was just a scramble. it took you to the top of a little ridge just south of the true summit. It was probably 5.8/9. I think it was around 80/90M total.

[Marko]

A fun day during a raging winter storm is to haul up your sharps and head up that chimney. There are a couple places that require some pretty cool scratching around; and the gear is sufficient. Leave your pack on the ground though, it gets kinda tight in there.