Salewa boots

[grandpa]

Any experience with these particular boots, or even the brand in general? Somehow this "adjustable stiffness" looks to me like a potential problem just waiting to happen.

[genepires]

Can't remember the author, but someone who is reputable was saying that this boot might be able to replace all of his boots. One boot for everything except denali.

 

I have no actual experience with this boot as $500 is way out of my price range.

 

[grandpa]

Can't remember the author, but someone who is reputable was saying that this boot might be able to replace all of his boots. One boot for everything except denali.

 

I seem to recall something like that also, but a "screwdriver adjustment" in the heel of a boot? Seems iffy to me, and I'm not able to imagine what it might do, but I've not seen one, so I ask.

[ryanb]

Not sure on the adjustable one but I bought some salewa "mountain trainer" boots when I was recovering from a sprained ankle and wanted something more supportive then my typical approach shoe and they are great. The ankle harness thing really seems to work well and they offer a ton of support for how light they are.

[alpine et]

love the brand. i have these, and they are great. everything i've wanted or needed from Rainier to everything else. climbs rock well. stays dry. warm.

[CaleHoopes]

Ok, so I had some great and not so great experience with the GAITER version of these boots at Ouray.

 

The pair with the Gaiter's are warmer than the ones without for sure but the rest of the boot is exactly the same.

 

Pros

Climbed WI5 awesomely! Felt very confident in them in very steep terrain.

More than warm in the gaiter model.

Excellent Ice boot

Lightweight

Fits Petzl Crampons FABULOUSLY

 

Cons

Lacing system sucks - very hard to get lacing system to work right every time.

Gaitered zipper painful

Very little difference between climbing mode and hiking mode.

Very stiff ankle (great for ice, crap for walking)

Difficult approach boot.

Sized differently in that model Performance = regular width, Insulated = wide (mentioning this because they may have this kind of weird model for the non-gaitered boot too).

 

I climbed a whole day in Ouray in these boots and thought they were the best boot there. However, I admit the demo guy didn't know the boots and was kind of a jerk (like I was doing him a favor).

 

So, I came home and ordered two pairs from Backcountry.com and a pair of La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX boots. The two pairs were one Regular and one Wide. Then I took the pairs over and climbed ice at Banks Lake. Problem? The approach in the Salewa boots was almost unbearable. We only hiked up a quarter mile at 45 degreesish, and over some talus. If I had to do ANY distance in these boots, it would not treat me happily. Once again, they climbed ice awesome. But only when vertical was I happy in them. In contrast, the Batura's have a very flexible ankle and climb ice ok, but I could actually climb a couloir in them and I don't think I'd be happy doing that in the Salewa's.

 

I do worry about the shank in the Salewa's breaking over time. If you could see a demo model, it's really just a strong metal strip that they loosen and tighten inside a vibram sole. I believe Dane has pictures. Changing the mode in the field (in real winter conditions) would totally suck. Too stiff and takes too much work. Plus with the horrible lacing system, I sent both pairs back and kept the Batura 2.0's. They are lighter and 50 dollars more expensive but they are also flexible enough to keep my back of my ankle from being torn up by the boot.

 

Good luck with your choice. I could see them being used on Denali in some scenarios. I would continue to use my Baruntse's for Denali. Warmer and can go to summit. If you're staying below 14 for some late June ice climbs, these would be just fine for that.

 

OH: And to the review of the Mountain Trainer boots... I have those and they are totally different fit and feel IMHO. My Mountain Trainer shoes are easily the best approach shoes I've ever owned. I wear them every day, have done multiple approaches in them and after a year I'm abusing them. They are even better if you get a no work lacing system for them. Then they are the killer app in approach shoes!

Edited March 25, 2013 by CaleHoopes

[grandpa]

... i have these, and they are great. everything i've wanted or needed from Rainier to everything else...

 

What does "hybrid" crampon compatibility mean? Straps, and not clamps?

 

I'm soon buying my first set of true mountaineering boots, and before I get out west to go searching through the stores, I want to have some idea of what I'm looking for.

 

These look so light as compared to the double plastics I rented last summer (which were indeed a bit of a pain, but my feet didn't get cold)

 

Thanks, all

[CaleHoopes]

Many of the manufacturers use different terms for crampons. These boots will fit a full clip-on crampon with a toe welt and heel welt. So, when they say hybrid, you are probably looking at being able to fit all crampons, honestly.

 

So, one thing to think about if these will be your first boots - single layer boots take longer to dry on multiple day trips. If you are a person who gets the sweaty feet, you will want to consider that. These boots are pretty nice and fairly warm. Just be ready to spend time to dry them out overnight.

[genepires]

I could be wrong but I thought a hybrid crampon worked on boots that did not have a toe welt by using a plastic or nylon strap over the toe instead of the usual metal bail. strap on toe and a clamp on heal.

[CaleHoopes]

Hmmm. The original poster's boot choice has a toe welt though.

 

I get what you're saying though. I just wonder if the description for the boot was wrong then. I actually look close at the boot for whether it can support the crampons I want on them ;-)

[CaleHoopes]

Better yet?

 

http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/crampons-snow-ice-climbing.html

 

Good description. And Gene, you're right of course.

[alpine et]

 

What does "hybrid" crampon compatibility mean? Straps, and not clamps?

 

I'm soon buying my first set of true mountaineering boots, and before I get out west to go searching through the stores, I want to have some idea of what I'm looking for.

 

These look so light as compared to the double plastics I rented last summer (which were indeed a bit of a pain, but my feet didn't get cold)

 

Thanks, all

 

 

As some have mentioned hybrid means it lacks a toe welt, and will work with crampons that have some sort of plastic or metal clip on the front that doesn't require a toe welt. But I wouldn't read much into how compatible your boots are with certain crampons... buy the boots for your feet, then take your boots to the store and make sure your crampons fit tightly with no clearances. FWIW, I use the above boots with the strap version of these . Rear strap fits down very nicely... but it's well worth it to take your boots with you when purchasing crampons.

[CaleHoopes]

alpine et has an excellent point.

 

I will tell you that this boot works fabulously with the Petzl Lynx. However, the Petzl Lynx has turned into the gold standard of adjustable crampons IMHO.

 

I was able to move my pair of Lynx from my Baruntse's to the Salewa Pro Gaiter (same boot as original poster except for the gaiter) with only a small adjustment to the center bar which was easily made in the field (they were demos so I had to do it on a -10 degree morning at Ouray in a demo tent).

 

Toe welt and fit are indeed something that can be hard to determine. So, the "hybrid" is really just telling you that there is no toe welt. Crampon fit is another discussion.

[Le Piston]

I have the Salewa Ravens, a lighter boot than you were looking at. I was always a diehard LaSportiva Trango fan, but these boots are ultra comfortable on my feet and climb just as well. I use the Grivel Air Tech Newmatic crampons...they work great! I hope this helps.