Ice Climbing Rjukan

[AlpineMonkey]

Does anyone have any experience with ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway? I am wondering if I can get by without a rental car? Would it be easy to hook up with other climbers with a car or worst case walk to enough climbs? If anyone else going there anytime soon?

[Al filo]

My friends (Spaniards) went there few years ago. Definitely you need to rent a car. The ice falls' area are about 10-15 km from town. They got accommodation at a bungalow in a camping, you can do reservation in advance. Regarding climbings, it is a book Heavy Water you can use as a guide. Enjoy the area, my friends came back very happy. If you are interested in some details, Im can ask them....

[layton]

What a bad name for a book. Frozen water is less heavy by volume as it is one of the few substances that expands when solid, one of the top reasons life can support on earth

[Z-Man]

deuterium oxide...

[bwrts]

frozen water, ice, floats too! I agree bad name. maybe translation error?

[Al filo]

No translation errors:

http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/heavy-water-rjukan-ice-2005/

[Z-Man]

Surprised people don't know about this, very important history, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norwegian_heavy_water_sabotage

 

Heavy water is deuterium oxide.

[spionin]

word, z-man.

 

climbed in rjukan.

 

we went in early march, and the conditions were very nice for being so late in the season. the days are long, and the temperature was just about freezing the entire time we were there.

 

- it's fairly close to oslo, where you'd be flying in. about 5 hours by car. don't underestimate those distances on the map!

- looks like there's no train, but a bus will set you back about $100 one way. the overnight option leaves at 11 pm and arrives in rjukan around noon.

- you don't need to have a car if you stay at a climbing hostel and can hook up with people.

edit: looks like the climb-inn fb page is a good place to post your intention to come, and potentially hash out some plans with other climbers

- there is actually a hostel in town right above the canyon, but otherwise it's a walk through the town.

edit: see above point

- there is a tonne of ice in a really small area. this is nice for just basically getting your ya-yas out as far as climbing. but keep in mind, that like in hyalite routes will be picked out. it's a popular place.

-lots of variety. you can get on routes that are a single-pitch wi3, or a 4-5 pitch up to wi5, as well as mixed stuff. all next to each other, in the same canyon. *there are a few routes that are more rambly, and up to 20-something pitches, not in the main canyon, but are still in town.

- if when! we go back there, we're bringing skis. gaustatoppen looks amazing.

 

conditions notes:

 

current info: http://www.climb-inn.com/2012/11/ice-conditions/

their FB page looks like a perfect hub to check conditions and to hook up with other climbers in advance!

feb 22-24 they are having an ice fest. expect to find no accommodations during that time http://www.rjukanicefestival.com/

 

there was no language barrier. everyone, from bus drivers to grocery store clerks speaks extremely well. we had encountered exactly one person, in the boonies, who did not speak english, but he was still very receptive, friendly, and signs, drawings, and attempts to speak other languages (we were versed in german, french, russian, portuguese, spanish, and ukrainian between us) did the trick.

 

there's a guidebook, but it's quite expensive (~$60). if you really want it, it's sold in most hostels and the city hall. we mostly used this: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1027, especially the top-50 list!

 

 

hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions! -veronika

Edited February 14, 2013 by spionin