keenwesh Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Trip: Cody Classics - Date: 1/7/2013 Trip Report: I'm far too tired to write up much more than a photo dump, but here's the general gist of it. 4 days of climbing with Martin in the awesome South Fork. Started it off with a run up Broken Hearts. With the full sun screws were basically worthless, but the hero ice made for really fun roped soloing. My Only Valentine was good to go, but as I headed up the cone an ice dam broke up above and quadrupled the flow of water, making the lead much less appealing. We descended and planned to climb on the Other side of the valley for the next day. Martin led the first pitch of high on boulder, and I took the sharp end for Moonrise. The ice was really hard and brittle, necessitating many swings for each stick. Needless to say, I was super stoked when I made it to the belay. Sharing the drainage with us were Eric and Lucy, of bus trip fame. Really nice people and they said they'd send me some shots of me leading moonrise. Rad. After doing the second brittle pitch of moonrise we rapped off and hoofed it over to mean green to sprint up the first 2 pitches. Brittle hard ice left my arms exhausted. On the hike out we spotted View to Thrill and Dressed to Kill looking fat. South facing ice high enough to stay solid enticed us for the next day. A long hike with some shwacking led us to the base. While the top of both climbs were fat, neither piller touched down. Super lame. Reverse bushwhack to Too Cold to Fire salvaged the day. 50 degree temps were a cause for concern. The Moratorium was scrapped for the last day because of the utter lack of ice on the first pitch. Instead we went up Schoolhouse Creek. First pitch was fun plastic goodness. Second was a chandeliered wet nightmare. I rapped out of the cave behind on the previous parties abalakov and Bozeman was reached before the sky went completely black. A question for the mods: Why do half my pictures not upload because the filesize is "too big"? All are shot from the same camera with the same resolution settings... Approach Notes: Over the cacti and up the hills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Nice Keenan, try downsizing your pics before you load them, goes much quicker. Is that To Cold to Fire in one of the last pics? If so did you go up stream from it? Real neat canyon up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 The top out of too cold to fire was drytooling up a open creek, I didn't feel like wading upstream. Both times I've been to cody it has been balmy and warm, 3rd time's a charm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Nope, from the base, you go up the lower, main drainage. Next time, it worth seeing for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Oh, I thought you ment hiking upstream once you top out on the climb. Yeah, we approached from the bridge next to the campground. Super neat canyon with the added danger of a possible fall through the frozen creek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Ice in the shade last weekend was some of the coldest and least sticky i've seen. Lots of cold days in a row. Exhausting, even on easy terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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