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Posted

Howdy-

 

So I have been climbing ice and alpine rock in Millet alpinists for 5 years now. After this summers run up the Emmons in said boots, the interior lining of the boot around the right heel has peeled out, and has resulted in some very painful and bloody blisters, despite my best efforts to duck tape the problem into submission...

 

Time for some new single boots.

 

I also have a pair of Spantiks that I bought last year, and they have been working great for me, but i need a lighter single boot for technical ice, and easier alpine rock.

 

I really like the fit of the Spantiks, and I also have La Sportiva approach shoes. So I think that La Sportiva is the way to go for me and my foot shape.

 

Between the two of them, what would the masses of CC'ers recommend? I am hoping to use these for ice climbing every weekend in the winter, (i'll drive out to MT if the weather here sucks...) and for summer alpine objectives as well.

 

Which is the better boot? What are the advantages to each?

 

Thank you in advance! :[]

 

James

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

It sounds like you want a new pair of boots anyway, but did you try taking the boots to a cobbler? My beloved scarpa mantas developed this same problem in the heel cup and I had a cobbler fix it up right quick, good as new.

Posted

Nepal Evos are comfortable, dexterous, and absolutely bomber. I've been very happy with them and they have done equally well at slogging as well as climbing ice.

 

I haven't used the Baturas personally but my climbing partner has a pair and is always complaining about his feet getting too hot. The outer also seems a bit more fragile than that of the Evos.

 

I would invest in Evos and bust out the spantiks for uber cold climbs.

Posted

Baturas are a better technical boot. Warmer, too, though they won't last nearly as long as the Nepals.

 

The Nepal is a classic leather mountaineering boot. An excellent one, perhaps the best I've seen, but it's nothing special.

 

The Batura is a newfangled mix of modern (and not-so-modern) ideas. A better performer--warmer, lighter, better ground feel--but it comes at a price.

 

The aforementioned Trango is another great boot. Super light feel on the feet, and the Trango last is fantastic. But again, the fabric won't last like leather does. For summer objectives, this is my favorite style of boot. The insulated silver trango works well for ice climbing, at the price of some rock performance and a bit of weight.

Posted

Oh and regarding durability, I used my previous pair for two seasons and didn't have a mark to show on them. They kept me plenty warm in 10 degree days in montana. Only reason I sold my old pair is due to them being slightly too big (i'm in idiot). I picked up a pair from gearx and they fit like a glove.

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