second tool for alpine ice

[mountainsandsound]

Anticipating a long next summer devoted to honing alpine skills, I picked up a 57cm BD Venom hammer for a good deal. I would like to get into moderate alpine ice routes like Baker N. Ridge, Kautz Glacier, Adams Glacier, etc... I made up my mind that I don't really want a 2 technical ice tool setup, rather I'm going for the old school 1 shorter mountaineering axe, second tool setup. The Venom is going to be my second tool.

 

Was this dumb? 57cm is about as long as hammers come, should I have gone 50cm or shorter on the second tool? Is a tool this long going to wear me out on 50-70 degree glacier ice slopes? Ideally I would have liked to test some tools out first, but I don't have too many friends who do much beyond standard routes.

[ScaredSilly]

It is bit long but for the number routes that you will truly need it, it will be fine. If you really want to hone your alpine skills learn to climb with just a single tool on moderate terrain. Many think a second tool is needed for climbs like the Kautz it is not except maybe in a few cases.

 

Using a second tool on climbs like Kautz can feel more secure and for some allow faster movement but then the issue is you are carrying a second tool for less than an hour of climbing. Then on the flip side you unexpectedly find a steep section and you are so used to climbing with two tools that with only one you are either totally sketchy or retreat.

 

To give an example this spring my partner and I climbed pretty much up to the pinch on Sandy Glacier Headwall will just one tool plus a ski pole before breaking out the second tool. We moved at a nice moderate pace - thus allowing ourselves more time sleeping and time on the summit. We did the same the day on Leuthods before but never needed the second tool at all.