[TR] LeConte Mountain - NE Face 9/14/2012

[curtveld]

Trip: LeConte Mountain - NE Face

 

Date: 9/14/2012

 

Trip Report:

LeConte Mountain gets little attention from climbers (and no TRs here), perhaps because it is a modest peak with a very long approach. Most ascents are side trips by travelers of the classic Ptarmigan Traverse that scramble the route in benign summer conditions. Few are aware that LeConte takes on a more serious character after the first fall storm.

 

Encountering such “fall conditions”, Andy and I climbed the “Indirect NE Face”. Although our line resembles an established route (termed “Route” and unrated in the Beckey guide), we feel that the snowy conditions and bits of verglas made for a fundamentally different undertaking. In fact, we believe that the route’s mixed character, requiring some genuine climbing, places it in a rather select group of North Cascade climbs requiring flexible alpine skills. Some will find this description overstated, but we like the idea that humble LeConte could have a route of that caliber. The overall rating was AI1, Class 3+, M0, 300m.

 

LeConte Mountain in the upper right

 

Our NE Face route follows steep snow up to the shadowed left edge. From there, ascend to reach a rightward traverse. Then directly up to the notch and rightward to the summit.

 

Looking back across the rightward traverse. The valley smoke is from the nearby Agnes Creek fire, still small.

 

Andy, relieved to be on the summit

 

South Ptarmigan peaks and the shrinking South Cascade Glacier

 

Reversing the M0 traverse on the descent

 

Gear Notes:

Less gear = more boldness

 

Approach Notes:

Ptarmigan Traverse

Edited September 24, 2012 by curtveld

[JasonG]

Shouldn't it be M0+? I know you are a sandbagger at heart, but c'mon! Think of the children.