[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 8/25/2012

[chris]

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 8/25/2012

 

Trip Report:

Photos on Monday.

 

Since I've never been up to Chair Peak in the summer, I decided to make a trail run/solo climb out of Saturday afternoon.

 

The climb was uneventful. For the beginning third, I opted to climb the more solid green lichen rib on the left instead of the dark chimney that headed right. It was more difficult climbing, but good moves on really solid rock.

 

For the second third, I stayed right and on the rib/ridge/arete/whatever about 2/3 of the way, then traversed left (starting just below a horizontal red band), to an easier corner on the far left side of the buttress that lead to a big gnarled krumholz tree. Continuing up the right side looked viable, but exceeded the 4th class rating I was looking for.

 

The final third can either be straight up through the heather, or up solid rock on the left side. I chose the rock.

 

I downclimbed to descend, choosing the heather for the top third, following my line pretty precisely for the middle third, and opting for the deep, dark chimney on the bottom third.

 

I would agree with Beckey's 4th class rating if using the chimney, my route description for the middle third, and the heather at the top. Variations like the green arete on the bottom third or staying on the buttress right through the headwall on the middle third bumps it up to low 5th.

 

Gear Notes:

I did take climbing shoes to move faster and with more security.

 

Approach Notes:

Because the old trail has fallen into disrepair above Source Lake, I think it's a toss-up if you take the Source Lake turn-off or continue up to Snow Lake Divide and then follow the old trail down.

 

I followed the Beckey description up into the bowl, and the current popular avalanche path route down. They both took about the same amount of time, though the Beckey line was more pleasant. I started from a talus field adjacent tot the trail at about 4300-4400 elevation. A few cairns in the talus field told me that someone had been here before too.

[chris]

Forgot to mention - take the heather-filled couloir immediately behind the beehive tower in Chair Basin (is that the thumbtack?), and you have an awesome ridge traverse to the base of the buttress. No ropes required. This is my now my preferred finish to the approach.

[kurthicks]

You can also skin to this notch in the winter. A little booting above the col takes you below the North Face.

[Alpine_Tom]

That's a fun solo climb, I've done it a couple of times. But I bring a rope because I'm a coward about downclimbing and I'd rather rappel.