[TR] Ingalls Peak - East Ridge 8/1/2012

[mountainmatt]

Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge

 

Date: 8/1/2012

 

Trip Report:

Ingalls Peak

East ridge

5 pitches, 5.7

August 2nd- 3rd, 2012

 

Having moved to the east coast in March, I have not had as much time as I would like to head out climbing, and even when I do, the 5 minute approaches have not done me any favors. For one of my semi-frequent trips to Seattle, Stewart and I had decided to head up to the Enchantments for a route on Mount Stuart. There are many reasons that we did not end up with plan A, additionally plan B was also failing as I was starting to suffer from altitude problems, so a plan C came together. Ingalls peak was nearby, so we went for that. We bivied on the ridge towards Mount Stuart, enjoyed an awesome clear night, a nearly full moon, and besides running into my friend Kevin coming back from the North ridge, we never saw another person. It was great to catch up with a good friend, enjoy a cigar, and some brandy. The next morning, we B-lined it to the base of the route, and just had a good day all around.

 

Route description:

The route itself it really best described as 5.fun. It has a feel of the 5.fun sections of the north ridge of Mount Stuart but without the commitment. The most difficult part is really finding a place to call the start of the route (warning, do not go all the way up the gully, head left on the large ledge system, see topo). After that, the pitches go as long as you want to make them (or can with rope drag), or as short as you want (ledges galore!). There is gear all along the way, however the climbing is fairly easy so often times you will find yourself having gone 30-40 feet before placing a single piece. We never had a route description on the route; we just went with what looked to be the most fun. For the crux, there is plenty of beta to bring a #4 cam. You can definitely protect this safely without a #4 (the cam actually makes the crux more of a TR move). A single #3 at the base will keep you plenty safe. Pitch 4 and 5 can really be one if if you are really careful with rope drag, otherwise a short pitch is required.

 

The bivy site:

 

Stewart at the Bivy site below the west ridge of Mount Stuart:

 

Matt enjoying the same nice bivy:

 

The full east side and north face of Ingalls peak:

 

Stewart on the approach:

 

The approach gully:

 

Continuing up the gully:

 

Stewart on pitch 1:

 

Stewart on pitch 2:

 

Matt at the belay of pitch 2:

 

Matt on pitch 4:

 

Matt at the top of pitch 4:

 

Stewart on pitch 4:

 

Matt on the short pitch 5:

 

Topo for Ingalls Peak, East Ridge:

 

Photos by Matt Clifton and Stewart Matthiesen.

 

Gear Notes:

#4 cam if you want a TR for the crux move, #3 if you want to save the weight. Otherwise, a single rack and some nuts will do.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Yeah, as Matt said, this was more fun that I thought it would be and except for the first pitch had decent rock. A worthy alternative to the busy south face if you want a slightly bigger challenge. Crampons were handy to get up the gully this late in the season but some stiffer boots and confidence with your ice axe could work, or try the rock bypass on the left. :-)

 

Thanks for the TR Matt!

[wbk]

I heart mountainmatt! Thanks for the TR!!

Edited September 18, 2012 by wbk

[curtveld]

Good stuff! Ingalls is always a nice backup for the big Stu when things don't go your way.

 

The most difficult part is really finding a place to call the start of the route (warning, do not go all the way up the gully, head left on the large ledge system, see topo).

Here's another fun option for avoiding that gully.