Mt Logan TR

[iain]

whoops. the classic double-post.

 

[ 06-24-2002, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

[iain]

Sounds like you had some fun at least. By the way, I was in that Wy'East group yesterday. I think you may have radioed at one point. That route has seen better days.

[Dru]

looks like the classic triple post to me

 

Marty did you meet Jeremy and Jay coming down from their new route?

[Marty_Johnson]

On May 18th four of us were dropped off on the Quinta Sella Glacier at 8100', just on the US side of the border. The next two days were spent skiing the 12.5 miles with heavy packs and sleds to the normal basecamp of the King Trench. On the 24th of May we establised our camp at King Col, 13,500'. After a rest day, our first one, we made a carry to the next camp located at 15,600'. Up to this point the weather was stellar, with clear skies every day! On May 30th we establised camp 4 at 17,000'. The weather is now very unprdictable as it is at times, clear, cloudy, then a white out. Temperatures reached a low of -20 to -40 F. Our thermometer only weint to -20 F. On June 2nd we discouvered that we had a little over one gallon of fuel left. fuel consumption increased dramatically due to altitude, temperature, and wind. So on June 3rd, we leaft with light day packs for the summit. Our original plan was to establish a camp 5 out on the summit platue, as the summit was stil 7.5 miles away. After reaching Prospectors Col 18,00'it was clear as why we needed that camp. It was a long way to the summit. With the weather being unstable and getting worse by the hour, and our fuel situation, we decided that we should retreat and move back to the King Col, and more fuel before being cought in a strom at 17,000. So after 21 hours of movement we arrived at the col at 12:30am on June 4th. On the 5th of June we arrived back at basecamp. June 6th we arrived back at our landing zone and were picked up on the 7th. All in all we were out 21 days, did a total of 22,300 feet of elevation gain, and covered close to 100 miles. Three of us did it in telemark gear, the other in randonee gear. One of us skiied the entire mountaint from our high point of 18,000', minus 500' of ice fall

[iain]

Sounds like you had some fun at least. By the way, I was in that Wy'East group yesterday. I think you may have radioed at one point. That route has seen better days.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Marty, Thanks for the TR and congrats.

 

Why did you come in from the US side? Cheaper, less beaurocratic hassel, route considerations? Was there any Canadian ranger hassel?

 

The reason I ask, is I am planning a solo attempt of Logan in 2004 and expect that I will have a difficult time getting permission from the authorities.

 

If any body has comments or hints please spray away. Dru?

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:

Marty, Thanks for the TR and congrats.

 

Why did you come in from the US side? Cheaper, less beaurocratic hassel, route considerations? Was there any Canadian ranger hassel?

 

The reason I ask, is I am planning a solo attempt of Logan in 2004 and expect that I will have a difficult time getting permission from the authorities.

 

If any body has comments or hints please spray away. Dru?

---

Naw its easy to get permission to solo Logan these days. They changed the regs in 1997 or something. In fact some Czech dude (first solo of East Ridge) said its way easier to solo it since you dont have to multi-carry all that gear you just single push up over and down. It took him half the time it took other parties on the route that season.