[TR] Crystal Lake Spire SW Rib - 8/12/2012

[Eric T]

Trip: Crystal Lake Spire SW Rib -

 

Date: 8/12/2012

 

Trip Report:

Rumors have been swirling about this Crystal Lake Spire. First I saw this post from OlympicMtnBoy (I like his sense of humor)

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1075299

and then I heard that Jens and Dave Back had been up there. When Dave asked me if I wanted to head up with him I was all smiles. The hike up Ingalls Creek is shaded and mellow and the uphill portion wasn’t bad. Once in the basin you’re not only alone but right under Crystal Lake Spire, Nightmare Spires and the Flag pole ridge/Little Annapurna.

There are no permits to get and it’s very Enchantment like.

Dave and I jumped on Crystal Lake Spire the first morning and soloed the first third of the tower. We roped up for a great corner that went 5.9 and simu-climbed another third of the route after that pitch. We found some more nice cracks further up that went 5.7 and were very quality. We then traversed around a tower, crossed a knife edge ridge and went up a fun slab to the summit block. The last pitch is fun 5.8 in great position.

The second day we went up for a recon climb of the Nightmare Spires and had a ball. We don’t think anyone has done the complete Nightmare ridge from bottom to top and it would make for an impressive climb. It would be at least 5.10 Grade IV.

This area has a ton of potential and deserves a lot more attention.

Finding water may be an issue in late season, we walked 15 minutes uphill to a trickle which I’m sure is gone now. Lots of fire wood though.

 

Gear Notes:

Double rack, single rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Head 7.7 miles up Ingalls Creek, turn right up Crystal Creek and head 2.5 miles up, look for cairns.

 

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Cool, glad you were inspired, it's a great area!

[Verticolorful]

Yeah Eric and Dave! Way to be getting after it.