Ruth Gorge area info wanted

[Jedi]

I am interested in any info on The Rooster Comb, Barille, Dickey, Dan Beard or any other fun routes on nearby peaks. Looking for anything WI 4 and up to 5.8 rock climbing. I am going with the idea of attmpting Ham & Eggs and th SW Ridge on Peak 11,300. But with the large amount of interest in both routes, we might want to attempt something less crowded. I hate to be standing in line to get on route. Can't get excited about someone knocking ice down on me and/or someone nipping at my heals. If I wanted long lines and crowds, I could go to Disney World, the Gunks or Yosemite on a holiday weekend.

[W]

Jedi, check your pm's.

[roger_johnson]

I've been in the Ruth Gorge and can say that a top end of WI 4 and 5.8 is pretty low for the mts in that area. Might have more to choose from in another range. Just a thought....

Another thought- It is an incredable place!! Worth the trip! Skiing down glacier towards Mt. Johnson, past the East face of Barille is like nothing else. You could pioneer many new lines on the peaks below Mooses Tooth.

[ 03-29-2002: Message edited by: roger johnson ]

[rayborbon]

My friend is a pilot up there. He is also a climber too... He told me the Ruth Gorge has climbs like what Roger mentions. 5.8 and such I think if you ask the right person you will find what ROger implies may not be much of there. Moose's tooth has a route on it like that...

[ 03-29-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ]

[Jedi]

Yeah, I would like to attempt a couple moderates to get acquainted to the area. I don't want to be pushing the limits on my 1st outting to the Gorge. I'll probably just end up embarressing myself at the least. I'm sure the 2 we were looking at are spectacular. But I wanted to know if there are any other stellar moderates that are not as well know, yet.

I thought about lugging the aid rack but I have my heart set on swing my tools as much as possible.

hmmm...pioneering a route. Sounds tempting. Wish I was 18 and lead 10d trad.

Thanks fella's

jfclimbhi@earthlink.net

Jedi

[iamjacktors]

The East Buttress of Johnson is a moderate classic. Ask W - he'll tell you.

[DavidW]

I've been into the Ruth quite a number of times in the late 80's and early 90's. The rock can be a little "chossy" here and there but the place is one of the great wonders of the world. Only once (on the Mooses Tooth) have I had other people on the same route and they bailed very early. Thats been 15 years ago tho... so who knows. The place impressed me as being pretty serious and for my wife and I the only "moderates" we were really willing to try were the Mooses Tooth, Dan Beard and 11,300.

Little Switzerland and the Pica Glacier has always been a favorite location for alaskans who wanted to rock climb in the Alaska Range. Everything from day crags sticking out of the glacier to big wall routes.

The Alaska Range is incredible whatever you do!

[Jedi]

Joe, you are on to something there. It looks like an ok route. I was hoping for something with softer rock, maybe bigger and more impressive. Looks like a route for small children and old ladies with walkers.

But hey, if I have couple of hours to run up it while I am there, I'll make sure to take a picture of the summit. I wonder if I should wear sneakers or flip flops on the hike up....err I mean accent.

I hear the last guys that were on it got bored with the climbing and left it for another day.

Got any other suggestions Joe? hehehe

yeah, Mark told me a little about it. I think I'll leave that to you guys, thank you very much.

Jedi

[Nelly]

A few years ago I went to the Ruth Gorge and got spanked big time! We then flew to Little Switzerland and more than made up for the humiliation we experienced in the Ruth.......I liken LS to the Bugaboos with easier approaches. There are lots of opportunities for routes of all degrees of difficulty, lots of FA's just waiting to be plucked, the skiing is great, no lines, great scenery and good rock!

Talk with Paul at Talkeetna Air Taxi, he climbs in there a lot. He pointed out some areas of untouched stone.

[Wallstein]

I was up there a couple of years ago and had great weather and great rock...I've been told that never happens in the Ruth. If you are looking for route beta I would just go to the ranger station when you are up there and look through all of the binders of topos. You will probably have better luck there than finding info down here. There is a Climbing or Rockandice with an article all about the ruth, I believe greg crouch wrote it.

Enjoy yourself and stay away from the choss.

[Guest]

there is a good article by crouch on ruth- pictures and lines drawn, no topos though. it's in climbing, about 4 years old. also try to track jim donini, he is a walking encyclopedia of that area. cobra pilar is in the new 50 favorite climbs by coroese. about a year ago there was a pretty good review in high magazine.