Mount Athabasca - Silverhorn Conditions?

[Iliketogoup]

I am thinking about heading out to climb the Silverhorn next week and was just wondering if anybody had heard anything regarding the conditions of late.

Thanks

[G-spotter]

A friend went up the North Face on Sat and said conditions were ideal. Silverhorn is supposed to have a lot of exposed ice.

Here is one of his pics.

[Alex]

looks perfect. n face athabasca one of my all time favs!

[Iliketogoup]

Thanks for the pic

What did he have on the his rack if you don't mind me asking, I have a tendency to take a bit more than I always need then feel it on the down

[stinkyclimber]

When the Silverhorn is in that kind of condition, it all depends on your comfort on mid-angle alpline ice (50 degrees? not that steep). If you plan on belaying, then 2 screws for each belays= and maybe 1-2 max for each pitch. If simuling, then maybe 5-6 should get you up it without stopping. Two tools will make it faster but it has obviously been done with one.

 

For NF - again, depends on your comfort. Most will want 2-3 screws per pitch. For the rock band: try to avoid the rock and stick to the gully or snow ridge to the right of the gully. To get into the gully, there is 5-10 ft of rock. If the gully is out, then the rock is easy, but shit. Really shit. I can't underscore how shitty it is. Loose, downsloping shale shit. In other words, classic Rockies munge. I suppose a few nuts, a cam or two. Maybe a small pin or two. I can't remember. The rock is shit so don't count on a lot of pro. Fortunately it is easy. We had to take the rock to the left of the gully. It was a pitch and a half.

 

I don't think pickets would be useful - not that much snow left by the looks of it.

 

I'd do the NF over Silverhorn, esp if the gully is in (you can see it from the road). Not that much harder and WAYY more asthetic. But both are fun - a fun peak.

 

Check out the ACMG site for really up to date weather and route conditions.

[G-spotter]

Thanks for the pic

What did he have on the his rack if you don't mind me asking,

 

I dunno but he said it was 8 pitches of one-stick hero ice and then a 5.7 crux with four fixed pins.

[wfinley]

I'd do the NF over Silverhorn, esp if the gully is in (you can see it from the road). Not that much harder and WAYY more asthetic. But both are fun - a fun peak.

Aesthetics are subjective. Beckey lists Silverhorn as one of his 100 favorites in his new book - and there's no 5.7 moves on loose down sloping shale. That said.,. Loose Rockies choss builds character & makes you fully appreciate the well bolted routes near Canmore.