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loose block on Lizard


markwebster

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I was rapping down from the top of the 5th pitch of Lizard yesterday and stepped on a large loose block. When I stepped on the block I was about level with the bottom of Breakfast of Champions, just above and right of that 5 inch tree above the 5 bolt anchor on Lizard.

 

The loose block is 17 inches wide, about 7 inches thick and loosely perched on a sloping ledge. It's a killer, and one more push from dropping down Rogers corner.

 

I am aware that might not be called Lizard. We had gone as high as you can go on Great Northern slab at Index and were rapping down.

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Here's the optional processes I would suggest: 1- Buy some Yellow "Caution" tape and crow bar and borrow a rotohammer. Go to Index at 5 a.m. and flag off the area, posting on the board that you'll be knocking off a block. Set up a solid independent anchor, preferably using the big trees nearby. Drill a bolt into the bad rock, Clip into the new bolt with an old rope in the independent system, pry out the rock and lower it to the ground.

 

2-Buy some Yellow "Caution" tape and a crowbar. Go to Index at 5 a.m. and flag off the area, posting on the board that you'll be knocking off a block. Climb up and knock it off that pesky block with the crow bar. Enjoy the sound as the block enforces the Law of Gravity. Make sure you haven't loosened any other blocks, then rap down and post of any damage to bolts below that may have been damaged.

 

There's been some blocks knocked off routes over the years, some good, some bad. Maybe take someone else up there to show them and see what they think. Have fun with it.

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sounds like the block that has been sorta lousy for a while. Does it have a chalked X on it? If so, I think it would be possible to put it in a haul bag and lower it to the ground.

 

maybe have someone watching the base while the rock is trundled down is a good idea too.

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I think it would fit in a backpack. That might be the best solution. I've seen bolts chopped by rock fall (grand central slab, pinnacles).

 

It would come down over those bolt climbs to the left of Rogers Corner...assuming it didn't start bouncing weird. It's about the size of two volleyballs...but sort of flattened.

 

When I stepped on it while rapping off the top of Great Northern slabs upper most anchors, I was about level with both the bottom of BOC, and the 5 inch tree that is visible when you are looking up towards the last pitch of Great Northern Slab...from the 5 bolt belay.

 

It slid sideways about 2 inches on it's ledge, and almost tipped off. It's to the right of where you climb. I only hit it because I was rapping straight down.

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