Mid August climb...

[shrikej43]

Hi, new here. A couple of questions. First I have no real climbing experience. I have done a lot of skiing for about 15 years and done some backcountry. A buddy and I from Colorado are planning on driving out there and Climbing Hood while in Oregon. We would probably attempt a summit on or about August 9th. He is experienced with climbing and will be teaching me and practicing: arresting, crevasse rescue etc before heading that way. I am somewhat familiar with Hood as far as the lower elevations go. I have had a season pass at Meadows and Timberline and hiked all around it. I lived in Oregon until last summer. Anyways looking for tips on conditions and what to expect for that time of year. Also is it feasible to ski down from the summit this time of year? Do I need any special passes or permits for anything? Should we start the climb at midnight? What is the Avy danger? Basically as thorough a run down as possible for what I need and can expect for that time of year. Much thanks in advance.

 

Edited July 25, 2012 by shrikej43

[Sanchez]

No avy danger, high rockfall danger, steep, possibly icy, sketchy, huge bergschrunds, zero chance of getting anything resembling a good ski turn above the palmer lift, no permits needed, sign the register. From late July through December this climb is what we lovingly refer to as a fu$%ing mess and it should be avoided at all costs. Go hike Adams, South sister, anything else. Hood in later summer is not a good plan. Try again in May. And you always do a night mission on hood unless it's the dead of winter and the conditions permit a daytime assault.

[DPS]

No avy danger, high rockfall danger, steep, possibly icy, sketchy, huge bergschrunds, zero chance of getting anything resembling a good ski turn above the palmer lift, no permits needed, sign the register. From late July through December this climb is what we lovingly refer to as a fu$%ing mess and it should be avoided at all costs. Go hike Adams, South sister, anything else. Hood in later summer is not a good plan. Try again in May. And you always do a night mission on hood unless it's the dead of winter and the conditions permit a daytime assault.

+1

[shrikej43]

Hey thanks for the response man. Sounds like we probably will not try it. We already planned on Adams, we may not have enough time to get down to Sister's. We are definitely going to Rainier but were trying to cram in Hood also. Sounds like we are going to hit up the Tetons in Jackson for a couple days on the way there. I would rather not get smashed by a falling rock, ha.

[aimk13]

I just tagged Hood earlier this month, and it was more like a spur of the moment kind of climb. I knew it would probably be my last chance to head out there because really, the best time to climb Hood is between May-early July. The Hogsback gets pretty dangerous with the steepness and rockfalls. I would definitely avoid trying it next month.