[TR] Skookum Peak (Sisters Range) - North Ridge 6/28/2012

[Leland]

Trip: Skookum Peak (Sisters Range) - North Ridge

 

Date: 6/28/2012

 

Trip Report:

This route is the one described by Beckey as the "Northwest Ridge", but is really on the N-NE aspect of Skookum Peak. Maybe they hadn't invented compasses yet when they scouted this peak. Beckey's short description of the route is pretty right-on, but we opted for a slightly different approach than the one in Red Fred.

 

The approach follows the usual route to get to the west side of the Twin Sisters range, all the way to the turn off for the west ridge of the South Twin, where we hid our bikes from dberdinka and his sort. This is where Beckey suggests heading up over a couple of spur ridges coming off the South Twin. We saw a system of logging roads on the map that instead contour around the lower parts of these ridges, avoiding some of the elevation gain/loss, bushwacking, minor cliff navigations, and inevitable man-man arguments, name-calling, then icy silence. From the South Twin turnoff we immediately headed south across the creek then climbed on sometimes brushy logging roads south to about 3600 feet, then countoured south east around the South Twin's west ridge to where the road switchbacks to the west. The topo showing this system of roads and an altimeter were very handy here!

 

 

This is where the superb bushwack ensues. The goal is to cross the drainage ahead to the logged ridge to the east, ending up at the top of the logged region on the next spur ridge. From the switchback we left the road ascending NNE through hellacious trees and brush, aiming for the obviously more mature forest above. Still finding moss and pine needles in my belly button from this part. The going was easier once in the mature forest, but my partner still fell down. We made an ascending traverse through these woods until we reached the bottom of an avalanche slope draining the SW side of the South Twin then climbed to the top of the ridge at ~4100 feet, just above the clearcut.

 

 

From here we sidehilled southeast below the South Twin, at 4100-4200 feet, until we reached the talus/snow basin below Skookum Peak. Going any higher gets into some cliffy stuff.

 

 

The route was as described in Red Fred: ascend into the basin then scramble on mostly good rock to the obvious notch between Skookum and the Jaw’s Tooth (getting off the snow and onto the rock can be tricky). We continued unroped another ~50 feet above the notch along the north ridge to set up our first belay.

 

 

The final ~250 feet of ridge was done in three short pitches on great protectable rock, mostly lower 5th class with lots of options for adding in some spice. Fun and straight forward! Very surprised to hear dberdinka yelling hello from the South Twin while we bickered on the summit.

 

 

Time breakdown: ~7 hours to reach the basin below Skookum; ~4 hours to reach the notch, complete the climb, and descend back to the basin; several more hours of whining back to the car. ~16 hours total. No land-speed records today.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Beckey suggests "several chocks" and you could probably get away with that. We tend to go heavy and brought gear to 3", and we were glad to have some big hexes and a handful of cams. Besides they look cool and make noise all fucking day.

 

50m rope used as a double rope worked fine, but something longer would have been nice.

 

Ice axe useful in a couple spots, and again looks cool.

 

A love of logging roads, brush, and sidehilling.

 

[Tyson.g]

Nice.

Cool photos.

The Sisters range really is a gem!

[Leland]

It is very cool up in that corner of the Sisters Range. It's not often I find myself wishing for easier access (how different would WA Pass be if you couldn't hear harleys roaring by below?), but the Skookum/Hayden Peak area of the range had some very enticing rock just begging to be explored - faces and aretes and cracks all on super rock. An open logging road gate and some boot paths would make that place an incredible trad climbing destination.

[Tyson.g]

Too true on the Harley's.

If you are ever in the need for a sucker to explore the area with I am game.

Always up for an adventure climb, and capable.

I can do a lot of schwacking for a little climbing with minimal complaining.

 

[dberdinka]

Twin Sisters bump! Get psyched for spring adventures. Dang that rock looks good!

 

[RonLester]

Thoroughly enjoyed that climb. I fully intend on coaxing Lee back into that area soon, I'm sure he's forgotten about the approach by now...maybe.

[Tyson.g]

I am game Ron, if you really want to go back.