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Trip: Mt. Hood - Sunshine Route

 

Date: 7/14/2012

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the Sunshine route with two friends yesterday, it was fun and pretty easy with some steep slushy snow (up to 50deg) and a near-sketchy 'schrund crossing. Descended southside and got a ride back around to our car, worked out well since some weather came in as we were coming off the top!

Since its mostly a one-up of the southside route, I won't bore you with the details, but you should know the berg might be a bitch (or impossible) to pass in the near future. If you do want the details, they're on the link in my signature.

All in all a fun outing, thanks for the good times Conor and Brayton!

I can't seem to upload pictures (or at least they don't show in the preview), so they're on flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04/

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Brought two tools for the steep snow, but it was too slushy to protect

 

Approach Notes:

Tilly Jane not Cloud Cap (unless the cooper spur trail also departs from Cloud cap, it was dark)

 

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Posted

Were you guys up there Friday night or saturday night? We skinned up snowdome Saturday night with intentions of climbing sunshine but the snow was so soft by 7:30am we abandoned any hope of summiting and had a great early morning ski down.

We saw a boot pack going left up sunshine under those loose sketchy cliffs, but another one went way right and we couldn't figure out how they crossed the schrunds.

Great/perfect snow conditions for skiing but looked like a suicide mission to descend Sunshine in the hot sun, plus the wind was ripping violently out of the west.

Posted

We were up there early saturday, from the top of snowdome we ascended directly to the berg under horseshoe rock, then headed climber's right until we could cross it...so that rightward bootpack is probably ours!

By loose sketchy cliffs do you mean (what I believe is) the Elliot glacier headwall? Looked suicidal to head that way...

The skiing from snowdome looked infinitely better than the southside (much better snow and no crowds), guess that's for another day...good on you for skiing that, summit or not!

Posted

"the Elliot glacier headwall"

I've never been sure of the exact definition of Elliot GHW, I though that was the fall line from cooper spur. From the top of snowdome, facing up on your left there was a ~200 foot section of loose brownies with a brown snow field below it and a set of boot tracks going right through it. I couldn't believe it... and right on cue a dumptruck full of rocks crumbled off it while we were sitting there eating breakfast. Someone had some balls. We liked your track ALOT better, but you're right that way is going to be shut down soon it seems.

Posted

Everything between Cooper Spur and the Cleaver is just what we call "The North Face," and her "Gullies," though it is, technically speaking, the headwall of the Eliot Glacier- so I'm not sure why "Eliot Glacier Headwall" is limited to the section from Cleaver to Cathedral ridge... but that's that.

 

I think we've just grown to refer to the features of the mountain as the routes that ascend them.

 

You'd think for a mountain as hugely climbed as Hood, there'd be better and more definitive names for all these features...

Posted

Well yeah on the S Side every rock and bump has a name, but on the more "rare" sides of the Mt I guess things are a little more raw. I like it that way...

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