burchey Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I want to pick up some hexes to compliment my partner's cams/nuts. Need something for icy cracks, etc that I can take on summer alpine climbs, and although they are clanky/not as quick to place as cams/etc - they are lighter, cheaper, and better in many placements if it's not clean rock. Soooooo, of the hexes out there, the DMM offering seems to smell the best. Any thoughts from those with experience? I'm about to hit "buy that shit" on gearx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burchey Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Little_Off_Route Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Morons??? You rang? I clicked that same button you did on gearX a couple of weeks ago. Torque nuttage is mine! I watched the slick DMM marketing video and I drank the Kool-Aid. Once they arrived though, my first impressions were a little mixed. For starters the DMM video says that their asymmetric shape makes them cover a larger range of sizes than regular hexes. I call bullshit! In fact the dimensions of the Torque Nuts is nearly identical to some of my other hexes. For example the yellow #3 Torque is nearly identical in all dimentions to my BD #9. I had thought that the small face (the widest measurement) would be a lot wider, and the other orientation would be a lot narrower. Nope, nearly identical held side by side. My other beef was that they were larger than I had though they'd be, but that was wholly my fault for not checking the sizes. They're big. #3 is a BD #9 and their #4 is as big as my largest (camp?) hex. Now the good. I am a convicted hexophile and as hexes go, they're better. They're not revolutionary, but they are evolutionary. What I like is that they're lighter (thinner aluminum) than my old camp hexes, I like the color coding for quick identification and I REALLY like the double length sling. The double length sling saves you the weight of a sling and second biner, or a quickdraw and it is long, slick, and works well. Over all, I'm glad that I have them, but honestly if I had to do it over again I don't think I'd spend the coin because 3 of the 4 are identical duplicates in shape to hexes I already have. For someone considering hexes for alipine though, I'd say go for it! They're light, and that double sling saves you even more weight in needing to carry less slings/biners/quickdraws. I'm off right now to my favorite practice spot to play with those very same torque nuts (and the rest of my gear). Off_Route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burchey Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 Off_Route, Thanks for taking time to write out that long response. Because they'll be my only hexes, I'll be okay on the overlap issue. What you've said tends to fall in with the general attitude towards these particular hexes. My buddy has the majority of the trad gear, I'm in charge of the alpine pro more - seems like these are a reasonable addition instead of doubling up on cams if we're going to be in the ice and snow anyway. I'd imagine the real issue would be to practice placing them properly and quickly. Cams are a breeze, these take a little thought. Need to figure out a better way to rack them so they don't clang as bad - seems to be another complaint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Without reading the whole thread, I'll throw in my 2 cents... I like the hexes w the wires on them (BD?) for the smaller sizes so you can use the wire to "slot"/place them. If it's bigger than my hand, I prefer slings on the hexes. They are also great if you ever have to bail. (Not than I've ever done that...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Little_Off_Route Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Off_Route, Thanks for taking time to write out that long response. Because they'll be my only hexes, I'll be okay on the overlap issue. What you've said tends to fall in with the general attitude towards these particular hexes. My buddy has the majority of the trad gear, I'm in charge of the alpine pro more - seems like these are a reasonable addition instead of doubling up on cams if we're going to be in the ice and snow anyway. I'd imagine the real issue would be to practice placing them properly and quickly. Cams are a breeze, these take a little thought. Need to figure out a better way to rack them so they don't clang as bad - seems to be another complaint. Oh yeah, for alpine I think they have real advantages. Remember the old mountaineering books that talk about slinging horns and hanging something heavy off of it to weight it down? Well the Torque nuts have a double length sling, so you can use them as a hex, OR you can use them as a sling with a weight. Girth hitch, or overhand your horn and the weight of the cowbell can weigh it down. They can be runners, or hexes, and can be used to wrap around a tree as an anchor etc etc... The largest two are the loudest ones. Don't allow them to hang out on together unless you like the sound of the Swiss cheering you on. Off_Route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burchey Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 got em on ebay for 60 bucks shipped. Clank Clank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 got em on ebay for 60 bucks shipped. Clank Clank. Get'n kinda hexy here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason4 Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 compliment my partner's cams/nuts. Yes, I'm a moron and have nothing to add but does Cam know how you feel about his nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burchey Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 compliment my partner's cams/nuts. Yes, I'm a moron and have nothing to add but does Cam know how you feel about his nuts? Well-played. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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