[TR] Chimney Rock - Illusions, Eye of the Tiger, Sticky Fingers. 7/5/2012

[pu]

Trip: Chimney Rock - Illusions, Eye of the Tiger, Sticky Fingers.

 

Date: 7/5/2012

 

Trip Report:

Weird trip. Daniel and I headed up to chimney to get up the classic link up of Illusions and Eye of the Tiger. If you had been watching us you would have thought we were at exit 38 sport climbing the way we were falling off things. Probably a lead fall on every pitch of the day. Illusions is in perfect condition. Eye of the Tiger schooled us and needs traffic as it is a tad dirty. YOU WILL NEED 3 #3 CAMALOTS OR EQUIVALENT FOR EYE OF THE TIGER. It is very technical and strenuous fist jams for the bulk of the third pitch.

 

After our initial beating was over with we chose to do sticky fingers to the fun roof. The climbing was excellent, the climbers were not. Lots of falling. Great gear!!

 

The good news about Eye of the Tiger is that it will probably be a lot cleaner by the time you go get it due to the lack of routes on the east face these days.

 

The road is clear to the Trailhead. Much snow hiking.

 

 

Gear Notes:

3 #3 Camalots for the 3rd pitch of Eye of the tiger. Two 0 and 1 TCU's for Illusions.

[Dane]

Hilarious.... And good job!! It is an amazing party link up I think. My favorite of many, of what are now left!

 

Damn, and Sticky fingers too!? Great day out! That one was really dirty and a loose top out by comparison. Not heard of many repeats on it either.

 

Gotta ask though? What that new fast growing North Idaho lichen over whelm the crack Joe?

 

And you don't what to know what we used on the first two ascents on that line for pro...other than it was rather trying and damn sporty using the original termionology. But there were no falls or takes. Only cams in those days were full size Friends. Crux crack is 3.5". It took new cam sizes for me to want to go back a third time.

 

I'm sure he's told you several dozen times but Dave laybacked the entire crux of E of T at 5.8 or so on the 2nd. Tells you how much pro I used. I offered to be his belay slave anytime he wanted to repeat it that way Still hasn't taken me up on it!

 

I'd take a couple of years off but Dave drug me off the couch for the second. I remember distinctly telling Dave, "No wonder no one has bothered, that thing just makes you hurt all over!" I was sore for a week. But it could have been simply that no one else owned enough big cams bitd;)

[pu]

Eye of the Tiger was really challenging. I felt pretty good in the fist jams but getting off the Micro Scuzzem ledge was tough. Can't wait to get back and get it clean. The start of the NE Face looked a bit bold.

 

 

[fultonville]

Very cool to see you got up this bad boy link up! When I did it I led them all as I thought that was the best way to keep my head in the game. Also Dane suggested that was the way to get it...what the hell was I thinking!

 

Remember the start of that third pitch well. Chilly breeze coming through that crack, eh? Got into that off-hands crack and ended up leap-frogging 3 1/2 Friends. Freaky. Jefferies followed wide-eyed but he made it 'cause you know, he's a sexual kinda guy.

 

As far as the east face dropping off, whoa, really looking forward to checking it out when I'm back in August!