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[TR] Columbia Peak - Monte Cristo Group - West Spur 6/20/2012


benny h

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Trip: Columbia Peak - Monte Cristo Group 6/20/12 - West Spur

 

Date: 6/20/2012

 

Trip Report:

Tuesday, June 19th:

 

Headed out to the abandoned mining town of Monte Cristo via Barlow Pass on the mountain loop highway. I'd been meaning to climb either Monte Cristo, Kyes or Columbia Peak for some time. The weather was classic shmooey on-again, off again, drizzle with nothing substantial to report.

 

I opted for attempting Columbia Peak.

 

I made my up toward Silver lake to Poodle Dog Pass, and followed the SE trending ridge toward Twin lakes. A ranger at the FS station East of Granite Falls reported that snow shoes would be needed to hike up to Silver Lake. This was not the case. The snow was decently compacted with virtually no post-holing to report. I made camp in a low saddle between the Silver Lake and Twin Lakes.

 

Wednesday June 20th:

 

Alpine start. Weather had cleared, snow was firm. Crampons and ice ax were sufficient to ascent the West Spur of Columbia peak. The final 400 - 500ft snow field on the NNW aspect appeared much steeper from a distance that it actually was. Snow conditions were ideal: Slightly crusty along the surface and less dense but well consolidated beneath.

 

Followed the Beckey description the entire way. His rating goes at Grade I, class 3 terrain, with some decent exposure. There was certainly an appreciable amount of exposure: over 1500ft between the upper snow field and Twin Lakes below. An unsuccessful arrest along this snow field would be catastrophic. The weather, snow conditions, and time of day (shade until ~ 10am) were favorable and the climbing straight forward. The only crux aside from the lengthy run-out was where to enter onto the snow field from the West Spur. Multiple opportunities exists; as the snow melts out, rock scrambling.

 

Super fun solo climb. Gear included ice ax and crampons. Certainly some options to link up climbs on the Wilmamns Peaks, Monte Cristo or Kyes. There was evidence of a recent large rock fall / avalanche on the upper north west aspect of the '76 glacier.

 

 

looking up to the route

 

[img:left]P10202321.JPG[/img]

 

Wilman's Spires across '76 gultch

 

[img:left]P1020230.JPG[/img]

 

Looking up to the final aspect of the ascent.

 

[img:left]P1020240.jpg[/img]

 

Summit view to the North with Sloan in the center.

 

[img:left]P1020264.JPG[/img]

 

Summit view East

 

[img:left]P1020250.JPG[/img]

 

Monte Cristo and Glacier

 

[img:left]P1020266.JPG[/img]

 

Stoked.

 

[img:left]P10202471.JPG[/img]

 

Scenic route.

 

[img:left]P10202701.JPG[/img]

 

Looking up last bit of the route while descending.

 

[img:left]P1020269.JPG[/img]

 

More of the upper snow field.

 

[img:left]P1020273.JPG[/img]

 

POV on descent.

 

[img:left]P1020272.JPG[/img]

 

View down the West Spur

 

[img:left]P1020271.jpg[/img]

 

'76 Glacier

 

[img:left]P1020281.JPG[/img]

 

[img:left]P1020280.jpg[/img]

 

Looking back up the West Spur

 

[img:left]P1020290.jpg[/img]

 

Sunlight light on the route by ~ 10am on the Summer Solstice.

 

[img:left]P1020300.JPG[/img]

 

Parting Shot while hiking along the S. Fork of the Sauk back to Barlow Pass. Columbia is on the right.

 

[img:left]P10203731.jpg[/img]

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, Ice Ax

 

Approach Notes:

4 mile river walk from Barlow Pass to abandoned mining town of Monte Cristo. A local historic group has done a great job maintaining the town working on the trail.

Edited by benny h
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