SEW East Buttress Bolt Ladder

[shaoleung]

Are they still 1/4". If so, any thoughts on replacing a couple with new hardware for folks working on the free ascent?

[mattp]

Half of them were replaced maybe 20 years ago. I've heard some speculation that the replacement bolts may not be as good as you might like, so maybe it is time to replace the other half.

[Sol]

the free line climbs pretty funky. if freeing the bolt ladder you end up climbing somewhat right of the bolt ladder for that pitch. you can't really free it and clip every bolt. but you can clip plenty if freeing it, most of them the newer ones.

 

I dont really see too much that needs to change on the route as of bout 4 years ago. seems like the guys that replaced half of them, replaced the ones that matter and also upgraded anchors.

 

replaced bolts seemed fine, but i dunno.

 

tooth and claw is one that really needs new hardware, quite dangerous as is. many of the 1/4ers have a rounded crater/taper around the bolt hole from being french freed and loose for so many years. and the belays are atrocious: most being dead trees/roots.

Edited June 14, 2012 by Sol

[mountainmatt]

As I recall, the first ladder had the most old bolts remaining and the second ladder is in pretty good shape (only a few old bolts remain). Besides being old, the biggest issue with the outdated bolts is that you cannot clip a normal biner to them (you need something very small or you have to girth hitch a sling).

 

If you are up there and are in the mood to upgrade, I say go for it. The route gets a descent amount of traffic and everyone would appreciate the effort!

[counterfeitfake]

Do you know what kind of carabiner will fit in the old hangers?

 

What is the face climbing like? Is 5.11a a good consensus?

[mountainmatt]

I used mini-CAMP biners, they worked jut fine. If you have a couple thin pieces of webbing I would throw them into the rack just to be safe.

 

I can't really comment on the ease of free climbing as it was around 90 degrees when I did the route. After it was baking in the sun all day, I just wanted to pull on the biners as fast as I could to get into the shade. The 10 portion is more slabby than anything, the 11 looks awesomely fun, steep, and well bolted.

 

Here is my old TR with excessive pitch by pitch beta:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=892396

[counterfeitfake]

Awesome, thank you!

[Sol]

Neutrinos will work too.

 

11- funky face climbing. Really, it's not the greatest free route. Seems funner when you can just yard past the funk and enjoy the exposure vs climb back and forth all over the face using weird holds to make it go free.. Besides the striking line and great position, i've never been too thrilled with the DEB.

 

For folks looking for free routes near that grade, at the pass, i'd recommend the Hitchhiker on SEWS, Boving Route on SEWS, and the West Face of NEWS over the DEB.

[shaoleung]

What about Clean Break on Juno-Jupiter Tower? Anyone got an opion on that? (Other than the TRs)

 

Edited June 17, 2012 by shaoleung