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Posted

Just a quick note to report what we found in the Rockies, from Dec 27th to Dec 29th/2001.

The ice in Golden is thin, and chandeliered, compared to previous years. It has been very cold (-20 cel.) and dry, so the routes are not getting any fatter either. A forecasted warming trend will get some more moisture moving through the system. Until then I wouldn't plan on any trips to this area.

In field, Carlsberg Column (or Pilsner Pillar, not sure which one) has not touched down. The other one looked real sketchy.

The ice at the back of Lake Louise is in much better shape. Louise Falls is in reasonable shape, and the pillar has been climbed lately (but not by us). There was lots of water on the route and it is rapidly getting fatter.

Other climbers reported thin conditions in Canmore as well. Best of luck!

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Posted

My last climb was at Louise Falls and the upper column was not formed. We climbed up to the cave to check things out and the ice leading up to the curtain had been climbed, but it did not look like the curtain had been touched. I poked around a bit, but decided to not give it a go, mostly because the pro on the ice to the curtain was not good enough for me. Two guys from Calgary tried it after we rapped down and the leader ended up bailing after placing about 4-5 screws before the curtain. It looks like it won't be long before it touches down to form the 'normal' line.

Dan E.

Posted

My friend climbed the upper column and curtain about 3 weeks ago (awesome, inspiring lead) and it was formed. Myself and another guy followed the pitch and although the climbing was delicate we though it was pretty good. Also, we climbed Guiness Gulley (Field) around 3 weeks ago as well and it was very good. My friend did't even use any pitons to protect the first pitch The pitches above the gulley looked fat.

[ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

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