christophbenells Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) do you guys use a full length rope for trips that involve glacier approaches and steep snow climbs? use the rope to get maximum pitch length? or do you use 2 30m ropes in twin rope technique and do short pitches? is it wise to do a running belay on a single 30m glacier rope? Edited June 4, 2012 by christophbenells Quote
christophbenells Posted June 4, 2012 Author Posted June 4, 2012 i do ski mountaineering and will only be climbing short pitches of ice/rock. Quote
mhux Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 I'd say a single 30m will do you right, if you're really worried about it (and not so much about weight savings) double them Quote
christophbenells Posted June 4, 2012 Author Posted June 4, 2012 how about belaying on the skinny rope? Quote
BirdDog Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 A single 30m is a bit short for two person roped glacier travel as it doesn't leave much rope for rescue coils. I have pair of 30's that work well. You can tie in short one one, and have the other available for rescue. They also work well as twins for alpine rock, or single for running belays on snow. Don't use a twin rope as a single on rock; not rated for that and easily cut. They belay and rap fine as twins, a bit stretchy but not a problem. Quote
christophbenells Posted June 4, 2012 Author Posted June 4, 2012 ^^^30m too short for glacier travel??? isnt that the standard lenghth for a 3 person team? Quote
mhux Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 depends who you ask, with 10m (in reality a little less) between 3 people that doesn't leave much for setting up a crevasse haul...you should be fine with a 30m though Quote
BirdDog Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 ^^^30m too short for glacier travel??? isnt that the standard lenghth for a 3 person team? 30m is probably considered std. for a 3 person team; however for a 2 person team I think it's a bit short because of the length you need for rescue coils. Quote
chris Posted June 9, 2012 Posted June 9, 2012 I disagree - 30m is perfect for 2-3 people. 10-15m between climbers, excess rope carried by the first and last climber on the team (if necessary). Have "stopper" knots for a two man team. Voila! Quote
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