jfreeburg Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Trip: TR - Shuksan Attempt - Sulphie Glacier Date: 5/12/2012 Trip Report: A long planned trip took a few of us into the alpine this weekend, despite the avalanche warnings. We knew there were risks, but knew we'd be cautious and use our best judgement to figure out what's safe and what's not. The incredible forecast turned out to be true and we saw hardly any signs of sliding, so it was a great trip. We had a late start to the approach Friday and with the soft snow, it was slow going towards Sulphide Glacier. We had snowshoes for 4 out of 5 of us (luckily), and used them as we approached the pass but decided against them for the traversing that needed to be done to approach the glacier. We decided to camp around 5700 feet. We started moving again around 3:30am to great conditions - solid, firm snow and the mountain to ourselves for now. There were some ski tracks that looked to be from earlier in the week, and a few tracks from critters, but not much other else up there. As we approached the summit pyramid, we knew it was going to be a challenge. We had a few newbies with us and didn't bring ice tools. We should have - the gully was pretty packed and plenty steep. The skiers may or may not have turned around where we did (at the base of the gully, 1/3 of the way up the pyramid) - if they continued, their tracks from front-pointing weren't visible. It was a bummer to turn around without a summit, but it was the right choice. The snow was softening up quite a bit on the way down and we didn't want to be under anything soft longer than we had to be. As we were headed out, a group of 11 (Boealps?) had just crossed over the pass. We passed along a report of the pyramid conditions, though their leader didn't seem to think the gully would be a problem for them as they'd be there at sun-up (he did it last summer and it's no big deal apparently). It wasn't summer conditions, that's for sure. I'd be curious to hear their report. I can't imagine 11 people in that gully, without a second tool, in early spring conditions. A great trip - no signs of major slides, no falling cornices, though we got in and out early in the melt cycle. Not a single crevasse showing on the glacier. It was definitely warming up on the way out Saturday though so I'm sure things will change rather quickly up there. Approach Notes: Road blocked by snow about a mile from the trail head. Quote
Josh Lewis Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Looks like fun. Any shots of the gully or summit pyramid up close? Thanks for the beta on this. Quote
IDontReallCare Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 I am the team lead of the group of 11 that crossed paths with you. This was a BOEALPS BCC graduation climb. We did make the summit and I would say the gully was in excellent condition, only the 15 or so feet up to the shoulder of the summit were any harder than my previous summit last year. We ran a running belay with 3 rope teams up the summit pyramid. I was able to get in good steps the whole way and took a gully to the right to get to the shoulder. The gully I chose was a lot worse than it looked (70ish degree rotten ice), but I managed, using mainly the front points of my crampons. Upon reaching the summit, I saw that going left would have been better and so sent the next 2 rope teams that way. Everybody was on top of the summit by 6:05 AM. The only issue was falling ice experienced by the last rope team that was stuck in the heart of the gully for too long, so they took the brunt of any icefall. None of the ice was major, maybe a bruise or two. There was also ice falling on me during the whole lead, but nothing bad. Got the whole team off the summit by around 9 AM, and even then the snow was only starting to soften in the gully (most of it was still in the shade). I certainly wouldn't want to head up much later in the morning, but it was fine for descending. It should be noted that I am very comfortable on steep snow and fully trust my crampons and ice axe; for me, the summit pyramid is a lot of fun. This certainly cannot be said for all people; many of my students were uncomfortable with the steep slopes and falling ice, but being roped up helped them greatly, not to mention this wasn't their first time using a running belay up a steep gully. Quote
rob Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 11 people!! jeez Looks like nice weather up there, though Quote
banos Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 Could you drive all the way to Shannon Ridge trailhead? Quote
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