Memorial Buttress or Buzzbomb Swingline wall.

[Tyson.g]

So here is my question:

 

I have climbed the Tree route on Eightmile buttress and linked it with the Stump route about a million times. On occasion I have scrambled up from the nice bivy area at the top of the Stump route to the base of the wall above and taken the descent gully on climbers left.

However a few times I have from the top of the scramble and before climbing down into the descent gully, gone up and climbers right and ascended the right hand side of the upper wall. It has been more than a few years since the last time I have done this but I remember starting in a kind of shabby left facing corner and climbing maybe 30' to a ramp/ledge. From this point I believe we stayed to climbers right and ascended a really nice but short splitter crack up and into an open cave that required some "crawling" from this point it was a short scramble that led to the "summit" of this formation and I scrambled down the backside.

My question is, what is the formation that I am climbing if not the actual route.

The old Smoot guide seems to call this upper mass of rock "Memorial Buttress" and that is what the person who originally showed me this line described the formation as.

The latest Kramer guide seems to be calling this the "upper eightmile crags" more precisely the Buzzbomb/swingline area.

Which is it?

Can anyone clarify this for me?

[genepires]

the future tyson memorial route. (in 40 years or so)

[Tyson.g]

You find a partner for this weekend?

[turn_one]

Maybe you were at or near Mini 8-Mile...Smorgasbord? Doesn't sound like Memorial or at least what the last few additions of L-worth Rock refer to as Memorial Buttress. From the top of Middle 8-Mile one would have a decent amount of rope free walking up and right to do along with a noticeable drainage crossing to reach.

 

You would come across an area refered to as South Park from the left before reaching M-Buttress.

 

Swingline and Buzzbomb are however worth the walk if you find yourself rummaging up in that area again.

[telemarker]

Swingline and Buzzbomb are however worth the walk if you find yourself rummaging up in that area again.

 

So true. Combined with Mr. Tremendous on lower 8 Mile Buttress, and Hello Kitty on Middle 8 Mile, is a great link-up. Swingline is a great two pitches of climbing.

[Tyson.g]

I'm heading over Saturday. Planning on some variation link up of lower and middle 8mile for sure.

Definitely planning on some "rummaging" Sunday. I will check out the suggestions, thanks.

If any other folks are around Saturday afternoon/evening and feeling like pointing out the goods, I will be enjoying the evening above the stump route

There is a great chance there will be an extra beer or two in my pack for you.

 

[genepires]

do tell how the memorial buttress shenanegans went.

[Tyson.g]

It went well.

spectacular bivouac on top of stump route.

crystal cave route and scramble up past cockfight today.

Good trip.

Good handle on the modern names of the crags up higher now.

And your adventure?

 

 

Edited May 14, 2012 by Tyson.g

[genepires]

twas good. but getting old means that day climbs becomes all I get for the weekend. tired!