The Tooth - Recent Conditions?

[spotly]

I'm thinking about heading up the do the standard route on The Tooth this weekend. Anyone been up there in the last week? Hows the approach from the upper lot(especially the little slidey area below the cliffs? Big ice block at the pass? Snow on the route?

 

Thanks.

 

 

[Nate J]

was up there on 4/7. about a 30ft cornice above the typical descent gully, and a 20 footer above the ascent gully. that turned me around. other folks were heading up for a short as we descended along the trail though. pics from 4/14 showed some slides off the east faces ledges.

 

Edited April 19, 2012 by Nate J

[spionin]

wow, it looks WARM for the weekend. we skied around that area last sunday, and it was a good 10 degrees colder than what's predicted for next sat/sun. just saying.

 

the snow was properly cornified by late morning, so would probably make for difficult climbing. there was definitely a lot of debris that moved in the few days prior, and we saw evidence of previous slides. here's a pair of pics from tooth: the large slide looks like it came from a snow deposit that slid off the shelf. you can see the fracture in the remainder of the deposit.

 

be safe. good luck.

 

[spotly]

I'm tired this year and it seems like an effort just to get out when the conditions are good. I think we'll hold off on this until the hard-packed steps are already kicked in...maybe do a nice hike somewhere instead. Thanks for the reply on conditions - really appreciate it.

[Al filo]

We were the folks trying to get there on 7th and we could not get to the ridge due to the conditions of the snow, cornice and bergschrund. Also the conditions on the route does not appear to be the best now, good idea to wait... I would add some pics if I would know how to do??

 

[ClimbAndSki]

Anyone up there last weekend and have a conditions update?

[mountainguy01]

Climbed The Tooth on 4/29. The notch south of Pineapple Pass was passable on the lookers left - quickly melting out and may present problems until better melts out. Pitch 1 and 2 were wet from snow melt, Pitch 3 was still 90% snow, and snow still on summit.

 

There is a ton of fixed gear on the route, it's almost a sport route! There was also tat everywhere and has since been cleaned up a bit.

 

Steve