I-Rock - TONIGHT

[B Deleted_Beck]

Howdy

 

Looking to do SE Chamber on I-Rock on Wednesday. At least I think that's the route- I'm getting conflicting beta... whatever it is, it should be a pretty obvious MI3-4ish line running for 3-4 pitches up the SE face to the summit ridge.

 

I have some buy-one-get-one lift ticks courtesy of Shell Oil Co., and though I've always ripped on people for taking cats or using the lifts to climb Hood, this isn't Hood- it's I-Rock. And it's probably gonna be nut-deep snow all the way there and back, so I figure taking the lift up to 8,500 would not only be not-gay, but probably pretty smart.

 

Weather will suck, avy hazard will be in the black, and visibility will probably be nill... so obviously be OK with that. Please be strong, have a firm grasp of multi-pitch rope handling, and have emergency bivy gear and a shovel. I have good wands. Another length of twin would be useful.

 

-Ben

Edited March 22, 2012 by Ben B.

[ColinB]

Just as a heads up, there can be avy hazard in the bowl of the SE Chamber along with on the uphill slog to the start of the route (its steeper than it looks from Timberline). Another option would be to traverse from over from Illumination Saddle and place gear in case it slides. Have fun and be safe!

[B Deleted_Beck]

Well, that ittybitty wind winder seems to have slammed shut. Recurring theme, in the ladder days of this odd winter. Heavy snow and whiteout don't bug me, but forecast 35mph+ winds at 9,000' is sort of begging for misery..

 

If the wind dies off, and my schedule hasn't filled up, I'm still totally down, through Friday. So if you're interested, let's communicate, and watch the weather together.

[Mtguide]

I think you're smart to back off and wait a bit. With the forecast winds at 35 to 50 at the elev. of I-Rock, and an ambient high temp Wed. of about 27, you're looking at a windchill factor of around 5 or 6 above. Actually the Nat. Weather Service says it could be as low as -1. Pretty rugged conditions. Also note that avy danger for Wed. is still rated considerable, with more snow, another storm system on the way.

 

As far as weather windows are concerned, I always like to allow at least a 72-hr window, minimum. You begin your approach while the weather is still bad, but on it's way out. By the time you're well into your route, and then on the descent, you still have another 36 to 48 hrs safety margin, just in case something goes wrong, giving you adequate time and decent weather to self-rescue, or for mountain rescue to locate and bring you in, if need be.

 

Under the current forecast, especially at those temps, if anything did go wrong, especially an injury accident, you wouldn't have a lot of time before things got very serious.

 

I know 72 hrs. may seem unrealistic, a pipe dream, at this time of year, so you just have to rush in and grab what you can, when you can. But it's always wise to remember that no matter how young, tough, fast and strong you are, the mountain and the weather are, maybe not younger, but one hell of a lot bigger, tougher, and stronger, and no one can outrun weather moving at 40 to 60 miles an hour. And it can always throw surprises at you, do things that the forecasters could never have guessed.

 

I'm pretty sure that Illumination will still be there once this spell of weather has headed east.

 

 

[Plaidman]

Good sound advice Mtguide. With no sarcasm or degrading. Well done.

Glad you backed off too Ben B. It is always tough to wait but sometimes that is the most prudent path.

 

Fred Beckey uses the 72 hour window and has lived and climbed his ass off. I also was told that Fred says that the weather on Mt. Hood should be given high regard and that we should ever think it is just a walk in the park. Watch out for the Pineapple Express. It is kind of like the perfect storm scenario. I don't know if we are headed for this kind of storm but Mt. Hood can get real ugly in a storm.