Road Conditions for Easton Glacier (Mount Baker)

[Josh Lewis]

Does anyone know the road conditions for Mount Baker via the Railroad (Easton Glacier) side? Or the Heliotrope Ridge side?

 

I looked up the info on one of the forest services website which the information seems quite old:

http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/recreation/?cid=stelprdb5150500

[kurthicks]

expect a long walk on either side. at least 6 miles to the trailhead either way--probably shorter on the north side.

[Josh Lewis]

Ugggggg...... Anyone know of a cool 2day alpine climb in the North Cascades that is accessible right now? I suppose I could climb Eldorado for a 3rd time (the fs says it's open to mile marker 21).

 

Thanks for the heads up.

[Pete_H]

How 'bout anything else from Cascade Pass: Sahale, Boston, Buckner, J-Berg, Magic, Hurry Up or Mix Up.

[Josh Lewis]

The suggestions are very much appreciated.

Buckner:

Buckner sounds quite appealing to me. I was wondering if it's better to climb the North Face or the Southwest slope? The North Face seems decent at this time of year, but I'm not sure which face is best.

 

Boston Peak: I saw it late last September which it was covered in rime ice. Sounds scary to be doing at this time of year. Has it been climbed in winter?

 

J-burg: Sounds like quite the climb. I love going on sweet adventures, but isn't that one very avalanche prone at this time of year?

 

Mix Up: Sounds like a fun one, but like Boston I assume it gets hard to protect during the winter. (I could be wrong)

 

Magic and Hurry Up: I don't know much about the approaches or the climbs, but have seen the peaks many times in person. Are they rock technical?

 

I'm just trying to get the best out of this weather window which I have until around 9-10 a.m. to figure out where exactly to go.

[Pete_H]

All good questions Josh. Do you have a copy of the Beckey guide? That would be a great resource for you.

 

As far as Buckner is concerned, I think either route may be good. The N Face is obviously steeper. Keep in mind you will encounter some exposed terrain traversing across Boston Peak to get on the glacier; and be wary of avalanche conditions.

 

Also, some climbs in the Enchantments such as Dragntail or Colchuck might be good objectives for you if you want to come over to the eastside of the mountains.

[Josh Lewis]

I should get myself a copy of the Becky guide one of these days. Been living too long on internet beta. ;-)

 

In a trip report I was reading it seems as though both routes (North Face to Boston) require a repel as seen in this report:

http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/buckner/nface2010/nface2010.htm

 

Here is the map of this:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2711/4461597855_299f04d96e_o.jpg

 

Any idea how the South Side would be at this time of year? As for the Enchantments, that's a pretty sweet area. It wouldn't be a bad alternative.

[Pete_H]

Yeah Jason, Steph, and Kyle went over Sharkfin Col on that trip which requires a rap. The more "standard" approach involves traversing the east face of Boston Peak, which is easy climbing but is exposed.

 

The south side would be less technical but you could avoid Sharkfin Col or the Boston traverse by dropping into Horseshoe Basin off of Sahale Arm and climbing up from there.

 

We skied the south face one summer when the N Face wasn't in. I'd say its pretty comparable to W Ridge of Eldo as far as steepness, etc.