akhalteke Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Just finished (relative term) my new after work diversion. Got a couple routes on it and have lots of space for expansion. Let me know what you think. Thinking about doing some volumes or maybe building a less steep ice wall on the back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave7 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 looks great!! I think one or two volumes near the top of the white portion of the wall would be interesting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akhalteke Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Question: Is there a way to set routes at a given grade? I seem to set V2's every time and want something a little harder. I have been simply trading out holds for smaller ones or moving them farther away, but this kinda makes the routes, well, crappy. I have a new found respect for the route setters at my local gym as this is proving more and more difficult. I guess that is 1/2 the fun though. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions or things that work for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cynicalwoodsman Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Are you climbing/holding on to the last hold(s) you set as a method of marking/eyballing where the next move (that you can't do yet) should go, or are you throwing a bunch of holds up there 'n then climbing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Try turning holds to force different body positions and use of core tension instead of just doing "small holds far apart" and get a set or two of screw on foot jibs. Try to set routes with twice as many feet as hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 The best advice I heard for a new route setter was to map out their favorite outdoor climbs in a notebook, with move-to-move topo and beta, then try to transfer that climb - or the best part of it - directly to an indoor wall. Its a bit time consuming at first, but it helps maintain variety! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akhalteke Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Awesome, thanks guys. I was just throwing a bunch of holds up where they made sense and getting after it. Now, I am more starting a route and adding to get the "desired effect," I might have to try that idea of mapping out routes. There are some great setters in the Colorado Springs area and I could probably 'borrow' some inspiration from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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