New Cheapo Climbing Wall

[akhalteke]

Just finished (relative term) my new after work diversion. Got a couple routes on it and have lots of space for expansion. Let me know what you think. Thinking about doing some volumes or maybe building a less steep ice wall on the back side.

[Dave7]

looks great!! I think one or two volumes near the top of the white portion of the wall would be interesting!

[akhalteke]

Question:

 

Is there a way to set routes at a given grade? I seem to set V2's every time and want something a little harder. I have been simply trading out holds for smaller ones or moving them farther away, but this kinda makes the routes, well, crappy.

 

I have a new found respect for the route setters at my local gym as this is proving more and more difficult. I guess that is 1/2 the fun though. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions or things that work for you.

[cynicalwoodsman]

Are you climbing/holding on to the last hold(s) you set as a method of marking/eyballing where the next move (that you can't do yet) should go, or are you throwing a bunch of holds up there 'n then climbing it?

 

 

[ryanb]

Try turning holds to force different body positions and use of core tension instead of just doing "small holds far apart" and get a set or two of screw on foot jibs. Try to set routes with twice as many feet as hands.

[chris]

The best advice I heard for a new route setter was to map out their favorite outdoor climbs in a notebook, with move-to-move topo and beta, then try to transfer that climb - or the best part of it - directly to an indoor wall. Its a bit time consuming at first, but it helps maintain variety!

[akhalteke]

Awesome, thanks guys. I was just throwing a bunch of holds up where they made sense and getting after it. Now, I am more starting a route and adding to get the "desired effect," I might have to try that idea of mapping out routes. There are some great setters in the Colorado Springs area and I could probably 'borrow' some inspiration from them.