[TR] Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak - North Face 12/12/2011

[Gaston]

Trip: Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak - North Face

 

Date: 12/12/2011

 

Trip Report:

I climbed the north face of Chair on Monday. It's a little thin--nothing was fat enough for a screw. On the plus side, the line is a little more involved than is typical later in the winter, with some constrictions and steep steps. Fun. Intermediate pro was generally hard to get. The descent is fine, with one 30m rap getting you over the worst of the downsloping rock in the gully. We did a 60m rap from the notch, which got us over the glide crack/hole and onto easy downclimbing. The anchor for this last is currently a single strand of 6mm around a big horn--it could use some more material.

 

Gear Notes:

Single rack to 2 inches with a bunch of pins.

 

Approach Notes:

No flotation necessary.

[kevino]

Did the top of the NE Buttress route look in?

[Gaston]

The short water ice step looks a little meager. I doubt the NE Buttress is any more or less protectable than the north face right now.

[DPS]

The NE Buttress is always more portectable than the North Face.