Woodcutter Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) We attempted to climb NE couloir yesterday (sunday) but retreated half way up the 1st mixed pitch because there wasn't any ice. There were a few patches of neve but mostly rotten sugar snow and the odd bit of rotten ice. Camera crapped out at the top too. I can't get the photo's to load http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5369:202185318212/jpeg/BG http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5369:927675318212/jpeg/BG http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5758:237675318212/jpeg/BG Maybe this route is always sketchy on the initial low section, but when the rock started to disintegrate under my frontpoints I had enough. Reversed down leaving a cam & a wire which I gladly bequeath to the next guys who do the big hike. Spoke to a really nice fella on the hike out who suggested that there wasn't enough snow on top yet and there hadn't been any melt-freeze cycles. The dude also said that the fat ice from 3 weeks ago on Colchuck NBC was greatly diminished. Everything else was great. Edited December 6, 2011 by Woodcutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Sweet! I was hoping someone would say how things are going up there. Thats pretty much how I thought it'd be, it's been pretty consistently cold up high I think. Good call on bailing; I climbed it before any ice formed last winter, and it was interesting to say the least. That rock is some of the worst I've ever climbed on when it's not frozen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcutter Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Thanks for the 2nd opinion Dannible. Nice to have confirmation that I hadn't completely transmogrified into a chicken. Respect is due to you for pushing through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hefeweizen Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 We were up there the past two days (12/10-11) to try and ski. Wasn't really happening. We ran into a couple of parties who were trying the NBC on Colchuck. One of the parties reported an inch-thick suncrust over unconsolidated sugar at the base and did not continue. The other were going to give it a go on Sunday, but we did not cross paths again. Reportedly there was a guided party attempting the TC, which looked to be pretty full on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yasso1am Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Myself and a partner climbed Triple Couloirs on Dragontail on Saturday. We were not a guided party. Will post a TR shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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