Mt Triumph, NE Ridge

[peter_noebels]

I was wondering if anyone has information on the NE ridge of Mt Triumph? I understand that it is 5.7 with 7 pitches and I've read on-line that several parties bivy some where on it and I'm wondering why?

Also, are two ropes needed to rap off?

 

Can anyone share their experience on this great looking mountain?

Thanks in advance,

Edited September 7, 2011 by peter_noebels

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I was wondering if anyone has information on the NE ridge of Mt Triumph? I understand that it is 5.7 with 7 pitches and I've read on-line that several parties bivy some where on it and I'm wondering why?

Can anyone share their experience on this great looking mountain?

Thanks in advance,

 

Last year I did it in two days in mid-August. We camped at the col above upper Thornton lake, which had running water. From there to the base of the route is only about 1 hour.

 

I believe we climbed the route in about 11 hours camp to camp. Most of the route was simulclimbed with the exception of the crux pitch and maybe one more. If you are efficient and simulclimb most of the route, you shouldn't have to bivy on it, IMO. If you want to do part of the route on day 1, then yeah, you could bivy in the lower 1/2 of the route, where there is a lot of class 2-3.

 

Beware that there are only 2 permit slots for the Triumph cross-country zone.

[peter_noebels]

Thanks for your response! Either way, it sounds like a great place to spend some time.

[layton]

If you've got a lot of time, the 3rd upper lake is spectacular

[kevbone]

I was wondering if anyone has information on the NE ridge of Mt Triumph? I understand that it is 5.7 with 7 pitches and I've read on-line that several parties bivy some where on it and I'm wondering why?

Also, are two ropes needed to rap off?

 

Can anyone share their experience on this great looking mountain?

Thanks in advance,

 

In 2006 my partner and I did it car to car in 23 hours. I was wrecked beyond belief, I recommend 2 - 3 days. We simulclimbed in in 5 pitches with one 200 foot rope tied in half. We were 100 feet apart. I would have liked a second rope for the raps but it is possible to get off with one rope (we did it) If I recall it was 10 raps with about 500 feet of down climbing. You will need crampons to cross some ice and snow, but you can leave all that crap at the base. It is a super fun outing with about 5 feet of 5.7. The rest is all a piece of cake and super fun.

[Le Piston]

It is a great looking mountain. Here's a tease from Saturday.