Mid-October Mt. Adams Climb - Info needed

[ashish]

I will be in Portland, OR from Oct 14-16. I am planning to get in a snow climb. I have listed the options below in the order of preference. I will most likely be solo. I am familiar with mountain axe and crampons, but not very familiar with glacier travel skills. Please let me know if here is anything I need to look for especially around mid-October.

 

1. Mt. Adams – South side standard snow route.

2. Mt. Hood – South slopes/hogsback standard route.

3. Middle Sister - Collier/Hayden/Irving/Renfrew glacier.

4. Mt. Rainier – up to Camp Muir only.

 

Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Water]

1) probably fine, if still in a summer weather pattern may not have much snow to deal with at all. certainly no glaciers year around as far as south-side is concerned

 

2) *shudder* but then again I'm a weenie about hood outside of the spring and early summer. This year definitely is different though, but, I still probably wouldnt be planning a mid-oct climb (personally)

 

3) if you go up hayden glacier that time of year (again assuming we're still in a decent weather pattern) there will be crevasses to deal with (ie you should probably be with someone) though you can make it up to the saddle of middle or go around the SE edge and avoid glacier all together. lots of scree

 

4) sure!

[ashish]

Thanks Water for the info. I am specifically looking for snow climbs to gain some experience. So if you know any that are easy-moderate snow climbs during that part of the year, please let me know. Also on Hood, I am not very particular about summitting. If I can make it past hogsback, I will be happy, as long as I can get some snow time.

[Water]

it is probably the most 'hurting' time of year to find snow. you'll really have to play it by ear a bit as far as starting to investigate sometime around start of october. really as long as you've got the gear making a choice between adams, hood, or middle should not be too much of an issue--i think in that order is your best likelihood for getting some fun on snow.

 

you can find some on adams I am sure, just the trade route will probably have melted a ton by then.. though this year is different and a lot of places that normally melt out completely by now will probably hold vestiges of snow into next year

[ScaredSilly]

I have found Oct to often be a great month for poking around. However, the slopes will be very hard unless there has been some snow. You might consider something like the Sunshine Route on Hood. Definitely more of an adventure if you can team up with someone with glacier skills. I would suggest Cooper's Spur but one really needs to be on top of their skills to be in it in the fall lest they be in a fall.