[TR] Jaberwocky Tower - Acid Baby 8/9/2011

[jpark42]

Trip: Jaberwocky Tower - Acid Baby

 

Date: 8/9/2011

 

Trip Report:

Did Acid Baby on Tues at Asgard Pass. I feel like there are a few topo's with a ton of information but here are my general thoughts and pictures.

 

We split Layton 1st pitch into two. This is due to length, he describes it as 65m, and there is a perfect belay station in the middle. All the belay's are pretty chill/comfy so if you find yourself having to setup a super uncomfortable belay you are off route. Finally this route could use a clean so feel free to clean it a little while you are up there. Here's our route description:

 

P1: Easy climbing leads to a short slightly over hanging corner crack with good holds. 5.9

P2: Crack climb, offwith, and stem your way up the obvious corner crack 5.10. This leads to a sweet 5.8 hand crack up a slab to a nice belay below the major roof section.

P3: Climb thin and sometimes crumbly cracks,5.9, to a slab below the giant roof. Take a sharp right across semi-protect able slab, 5.5, to a nice belay ledge.

P4:Climb easy hands to fist sized crack on the right wall, 5.8. When you get just above the roof cut back left on small fingers and flacks,5.10. Get a good stance, take a deep and do a mandatory 20ft run out on easy slab, 5.7, to a comfy corner belay.

P5: Here's the money pitch. Climb obvious corner crack, 5.10+. Cut right at the roof and climb an easier finger crack to a comfy belay ledge.

P6: Couple of different options here. We took a fun looking hand/fist crack straight above the ledge, 5.10. DO NOT touch the jumbled blocks at the top of the crack. Blocks are super loose. Fun move around corner leads to fun protect able slab climbing,5.7 and a belay on the left side of the summit pinnacle.

P7: We ended up going the wrong way so don't keep going left. Instead climb a fun looking hand crack with knobs for feet/hands on the right wall to the summit.

 

P2

 

Seconding across the slab below the roof on p3

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Set of nuts with emphasis on smaller ones. Double sets to #2 and a single #3,4

 

Approach Notes:

Go to Colchuck Lake. Go 3/4 up Asgard. Take a left. Look for obvious corner

[Sol]

acid baby

Edited August 11, 2011 by Sol

[jon_masaya]

TFPU JP! I had a blast,besides having to break in to my car at the trailhead. Oh and the ridiculous cloud of mosquitos that followed us the whole way. lol.

 

The best beta for the last 2 pitches is just go whichever way is steepest and cleanest, aiming for the summit ridge (I don't think any of those cracks are harder than 5.9.

 

Oh and the descent is worth noting. Don't rap in to the deep gully below the summit (saw some slings that other people had left down below). About 10ft below the summit pinnacle is a ledge cutting east below the next wall (listed as the optional P8 on the topo). Traverse around and scramble up and take one of the next two gullies back down. If you take the first one, as we did, stay left (following the bushes) or you'll cliff out.

 

With a little more traffic (and maybe some trundling) this route will just keep getting better!

[stevetimetravlr]

Sounds great! anymore photos?

[Kyle_Flick]

Nice work guys and good info.

The only correction, as keeper of accuracy in geography, is that you didn't climb Jaberwocky Tower which is low and to the north of Aasgard Pass (you pass by it enroute to Colchuck Balanced Rock). Acid Baby is located much higher, as you described, toward Aasgard Pass--above Spineless Prow and below Aasgard Sentinel, for what it's worth.

[jpark42]

Corrections are always welcome. I'm basing my assumption off of Layton's original TR which claims it as Jaberwocky Tower. Here's another picture from the route. This is use going the wrong way at the summit.

 

[Sol]

I just talked to another party who missed the summit ridge. They claimed to have been led astray by beta in Kramar's new Ltown guide... So, for P6 in the Leavenworth Rock Guide, don't "Start up the corner, " instead "Move up the arete on knobs...".

[layton]

jaberwocky tower was the best guess at the time i think.

that's a shame the guidebook gets you off route at the money shot pitch. I wasn't putting a lot of time into making topos/route descriptions (as evidenced by my Boola Boola Buttress "Thank you Baby Jesus" topo). Lotta baby names now that I think about it?

 

folks doing the last "pitch" at the summit plateau?

 

that's cool there are raps now, but the walk off is lovely through the flowers. do you need 2 ropes?

 

We climbed as a part of three with a cow's tail on one rope (two following at the same time).

 

Is my off route nut still in the roof?

 

 

[jon_masaya]

Not sure if the raps are all set up, its a pretty long and airy drop straight down... just saw some slings down low, someone would have to confirm this.

 

I couldn't see the nut listed in the topo, but there is a small BD nut stuck just above that section on the right. We thought it was yours and veered around it, but it brought us around with an airy move to a sharp rope-cutting rock, so I think the new nut is on-route.

[Sol]

That new nut is on route. Blake and Pete H established a 4 pitch rap route from the top of the knife-edge to the base. I'll agree with Layton that the ropeless scramble to the top is idyllic and finishes up the route nicely for me. Also, it's easy to wander over and summit enchantment pk when you walk off.