Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
jmace

Mouses Tooth

Recommended Posts

Bruce Kay put up a new line in the North Joffre Creek area, most notably an ice climbing venue and now also a summer climbing area.

 

Rock is awesome and I climbed the line on Thursday.

 

Here is the topo what he has to say about it and some pics

 

Myself and a few friends have been working on a new supply of squamish quality granite located in the alpine terrain of North Joffre creek. It has gotten to point where it would be nice to see more people sampling the goods and maybe creating a few more routes. Also we need a herd of elephants to hammer in the trail!

 

We have one bottom to top line established that has some of the finest granite crack climbing you're ever likely to find in the south coast range. Some of the cracks are perfect razor cut flush face cracks to rival anything on the Rostrum or Cookie cliff. The stone is remarkable clean for around here and tends to require minimal gardening or scrubbing.

 

I will attach a topo here but here's some beta:

 

Turn off Duffy lake road at NJC FSR. 150 meters later take right hand spur road. The drive in is 2WD except for the final 1/2 km at 4WD. A new trail has been cut and can be found starting at the very end of the FSR (beyond obvious creek washout). Look for yellow flagging tape and odd cairn to stay on track. It does a gradual ascending then horizontal traverse across alternating talus and slide alder on the right side of the valley. 99% of the trail is cut but take a hand saw for the final alder patch. 2 hours to base of crag. a ski pole is handy.

 

The climbing: The existing route is 11 pitches, all pitches being 3 star or better except for the first two. These two have a distinct mountaineering flavor and should weed out the sport twinkies. If anyone would like to do a huge community service some alternate starts look much more attractive but will likely require bolts. We stopped at the snow leading to the summit and rapped the route almost exclusively from trees. Some pitches have a fixed pin otherwise a rack of doubles to a blue ( including small greys and purples) and a single set of wires works for everything including stations. The existing route took 16 hours car to car but you can rap off from anywhere. I compare it favorably to Sunshine on Snowpatch spire!

 

Ethics: Nothing out of the ordinary so far. I think that bolting will have to occur at some point as many of the potential routes may wind up in cruel shoes sort of terrain. That said i suggest a minimalist approach. The stone quality is so good that i think a no bolt ethic would be silly. The other thing is if you would be so kind as to respect others projects, no matter how tempting. The only things we currently request that you stay off for now are the obvious sweet looking cracks off the main ledge at pitch 4. We have invested some scrubbing and flying time into them and would like our just deserts. Anyway theres other options.

 

5976429329_850db9b749_b.jpg

 

205846_27770_L.jpg

 

205845_8954_L.jpg

 

Top of the fourth pitch is under the roof at the obvious crack heading up and over. This fifth pitch is BD blue cam size for 30m

 

5976275409_073b5a1778_b.jpg

 

5988590466_0fde8cab99_b.jpg

 

Bring some tat and rings/mallions to beef up the raps if you go. Double ropes to get off, almost every pitch is 50m

 

Have fun

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, looks great!

 

 

Edited by DRep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I should have said is I climbed 8 of the 11 pitches on Thursday :grin:

 

We chose a turn around time of 5 pm since finding the trail entry point through the alder paths in the scree fields would be impossible in the dark.

 

This turned out to be a wise choice, we had a reasonable amount of trouble in the fading light and the rain that also started. Two poles are highly recommended and lots of time.

 

Wayne, right up your alley man!!

 

5988073341_bf4a6004cc_b.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×