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[TR] Prusik Peak, Alpine Lakes - West Ridge 7/2/2011


jrex

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Trip: Prusik Peak, Alpine Lakes - West Ridge

 

Date: 7/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

Left Ptown and headed to Leavenworth on Wednesday around noon, arrived at 5ish.

Camped and hit the ranger station at 7:40am, got permits for 2 nights and cruised towards the Colchuck Lake area. Rumor has it these things are hard to come by especially 4th of July weekend I think we lucked out.

Hiked in and headed up Aasgard Pass. 2 skiers at the top mentioned we should run up the backside of Dragontail since we were so close so we headed up. Summit around 3pm and then headed towards Prusik. We camped a few ridges over and you could see the peak.

Woke up around 7 ate some breakfast, drank some coffee then left for a Prusik. Staying high and traversing the snow seemed way easier than going down by all the lakes and having to go back up. I think it was the way to go because we were at the climb in no time.

It was really windy and the sun was almost on the rock so we kicked back and relaxed for about 30 mins. The route finding and climbing were pure pleasure. The slab crux had nice exposure.

At the summit pyramid I decided to take the crack straight up to the summit as opposed to the guide book saying go right to a flake.

Killer day.

Rapped off summit down 3 rap stations when we found the 4th frozen in water ice we opted to down climb the steep snow. Don't forget to bring your boots on the climb. Conditions were perfect, kicking steps was easy and except for one short fall and self arrest everything was sweet. We got back to camp to a goat and kid hanging out with our stuff, the only climbers we saw all day. Hiked down the pass and made camp by 7.

I stashed beers at the lake that we pounded in triumph. Hiked out the next morning at a chill pace stopping to take a dip in the creek. Subjected 10-15 hikers to my ass swimming around the cool waters. Headed back to Portland to catch Hempfest....Good 4th of July....

 

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Gear Notes:

Hexes and nuts to 3"inches did most of the work. I used a few cams but could have left them at home.

 

Approach Notes:

Don't carry a bunch of heavy shit....it's steep.

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