Water Posted June 12, 2011 Posted June 12, 2011 Trip: Middle Sister, Oregon - Hayden Glacier Date: 6/5/2011 Trip Report: Was suppose to climb Middle with my friend Al. Posted a message here just to clarify about roping on Hayden. Lo and behold got a message from another individual that was aiming solo for middle via hayden, that weekend. Al calls me friday afternoon to tell me his work has shafted him and he cannot go. So, Paul and I make plans to meet around 7,000ft a bit beyond treeline, Saturday around noon. Good place to meet someone for the first time. Paul staked out nice spot that had melted off. Beautiful day. Started getting high overcast partly cloudy with occasional blue sky windows, while looking menacing to the south. This was how the weather would remain for the weekend. Spent the rest of saturday shooting the shiz about life and swigging some blackberry brandy Paul kindly brought along. In bed around 8, slept an extra hour, up at 4:30. High overcast kept the heat in, mush snow from the first step beyond camp. I snowshoed all the way to the col, Paul donned his mid-way up. After that we just threw on the pons in case we needed them. There was some ice-blocks a bit under a few inches of snow in a few places but nothing much really. the slightest bit more firm in the final 1000ft. use ax and a pole, could have probably been fine with poles if that is your comfort level. little bit of balling on way down. cramps off at the saddle. a more serious pursuit--north from somewhere near the top of middle: back home in portland in time to watch dallas mavericks lose a close one. Mucho thanks to the couple who ended up camped by us, but who had done the saw-work on a lot of the fresh blowdown on the trail--you did a bang-up job. muchos thanks for the internet to meet a new friend and climbing partner with less than 24hr notice at 7k in the wilderness. Approach Notes: short and sweet for nice views Quote
mtnhippy Posted June 13, 2011 Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) The snow on the trail is melting fast. Great sunny (a little windy) weather window this morning to summit Middle. Ski down from the saddle was great. Got back to the trail head just as the rain began. Crevasses still covered but showing signs of their whereabouts. Edited June 13, 2011 by mtnhippy Quote
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